Blog

Another sunny morning in Siena. Said our goodbyes to Daniella. (She informed us that her contrada/neighborhood was one of the ones selected for the Palio in the ceremony the evening we arrived…hoorah!) Shut the heavy door of the Palazzo Masi and headed for the car.

Took a winding path south and east. Crossed from Tuscany to Umbria. Emily got confused finding our destination…but then that is becoming a familiar theme…Italy clearly isn't her home turf. In fairness, our destination was on a dirt road in the middle of a field. And is it all that bad to take an extra road or two in Italy?

Arrived at the picturesque Locanda Palazzone…an "agriturismo" style of hotel. The Locanda is a small boutique hotel located on a working vineyard. Situated high on a hillside outside of Orvieto with sweeping views of the grape vines, grassy hills, outcroppings of ancient tufa, and of course, majestic Orvieto perched 1000 feet above the valley floor.

Drove into Orvieto for an afternoon walk. Visited its grand Duomo, similar in exterior style to Siena's Duomo. Inside, a choir was rehearsing a capella. A very beautiful cathedral indeed. Later we heard evening vesper chants in the side chapel.

Peeked into several of Orvieto's ceramic shops. Colorful designs of bright yellows and blues. Walked along the high city perch to a commanding medieval fortress ruin and an ancient Etruscan temple ruin (from around 500 B.C. if I read the sign right). In fact, the soft volcanic tufu beneath Orvieto is riddled with Etruscan tombs and tunnels…hopefully we'll see those tomorrow.

The sun was low when we returned to the hotel. Everything looked extra green. Jeff took an early evening dip in a VERY cold pool…I dangled my feet in. An amazingly fresh and flavorful dinner on the hotel terrace overlooking the valley and Orvieto. Just us and a French couple…it felt like we had the world to ourselves. Our host (also the "innkeeper") recommended a white wine from the Palazzone vinyard…2002 Campo del Guardiana very rich golden color and a flavor to match. Dinner was a fixed menu…which meant we could sit back and relax. Flan di piselli al profumo di maggiorana…a warm flan made from peas (perhaps?) with fresh salad greens. Umbrichelli all'orvietana…a super-flavorful, thick tomato and herb sauce over a long lumpy pasta…amazing. Bascala pomodorini e olive con spinaci e patate arrosto…a light white fish with a delightful seasoning and sides of potatoes and spinach…both wonderful. Muosse al cioccolato…uh…chocolate mousse 🙂

We finished the meal with espressos. A kitten named Daphne wanted to play as the warm evening breeze turned the table cloth into a tempting cat toy. Darkness settled around us. We could see Orvieto's Duomo lit up hovering in the sky.

Something tells me we will sleep well tonight.

There is no better way to work off an illness than to have a full day of sunshine, fresh air, and walking 🙂

Started the day with a visit to the awe-inspiring Duomo a few blocks from our B&B. This cathedral is by far our favorite in Italy. Its green and white marble exterior is peppered with elaborate marble sculptures. The signature black and white marble interior (the colors of Siena) provide the backdrop for a rich tapestry of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. The ceilings are painted a deep blue with gold stars. Any one of the side chapels would itself make for a spectacular church. The Duomo is renowned for its intricate in-laid marble mosaic floors. Jeff's favorite room: the Piccolomini Library, with its colorful 500-year-old frescoes.

Grabbed a make-shift breakfast from a market on the way to the car: bananas, juices, peanut M&Ms :). Grabbed water for the hot day ahead. Already in the lower 80s. Near 90 as we neared our first destination.
The drive to San Galgano Monastery took a bit longer than planned because Emily kept trying to route us through the heart of Siena…which only permits authorized vehicles. Funny if it wasn't so frustrating. Finally, we defeated her, and headed out into the rolling hills.

At San Galgano, parked in a huge paid parking lot in the middle of nowhere…with literally three cars in it. A 15-min walk in the sun to the ruins of an 13th century abbey. Impressive, but no interpretive assistance. Another 15-min walk up a rocky path to the tiny, round 12th-century Chapel of San Galgano.

Wound through Tuscany on the way back making a small pit stop at Chiusidino for some photos from the dramatic heights. Picked destinations along the way by spotting appealing towers or towns on nearby hills. Made our way to a second abbey south of Siena in the Crete Senese or "Sienese Crests"…this one a working abbey. Monte Oliveto Maggiore with a small but beautiful church and a complex of sunlit rooms and a cloister courtyard with famous Renaissance frescoes depicting the life of St. Benedict. Greggorian chants in the abbey as we were leaving.

Returned to Siena for dinner. Got some of my appetite back…enough for a wonderful pasta dish outdoors at Trattoria Papei…simple and classic spaghetti al ragu…I wanted rabbit, but I was worried about keeping food down. Jeff had paparadelle al ragu di carne, petti di pollo, and Tuscan white beans. Ricciarelli and cappuccini to finish.

We walked one last time through the Campo and up to the Duomo taking some final nightime photos. By midnight, the young folks were just beginning to emerge. Jeff woke at 3:15am and could still here revelry in the streets…definitely a university town…at least at night.

Awoke to a white noise of street sounds on the old cobbled streets below our room: Vespas and small trucks transporting locals and their delieveries; pedestrians in search of capuccini; a rollie bag coming or going; a swarm of swallows feasting above.

Off into the Tuscan hills today. First stop was hilly Volterra…famous for its alabaster. Parking was scarce (but free), so we ended up at a dusty lot down the hill a bit. Turns out our lot was near an old town fountain and one of the old city gates. Steep stairway to start our visit. 80 degree temps and sun. A rooster was crowing along the city wall.

In spite of it's must-see status, Volterra was a bit on the unimpressive side…but we made the most of it. The ancient Roman theatre and an ancient Etruscan site were the towns crown jewels. The imposing fortress was so…imposing…it was made into a prison…so it is off limits including signs to not photograph it! We did anyway. Its a fortress. A Palazzo, a variety of churches, and alabaster shops rounded out the visit. Lunch was pizza on a breezy terrace looking out over Tuscany below.

Drove to Impruneta via San Gimignano…famous for its tower-filled skyline. We had been in SG before with Cheryl and Curt, so we didn't stop on this visit, but the vista as we passed around the town. Wound our way back to Impruneta to find the elusive terra cotta products the town is known. Still nothing open in the sleepy city center, but we found success on the way out of town. An artisan terra cotta maker with an enormous array. Found a terra cotta lion head we liked.

Returned to Siena for dinner. Discovered that on Monday night…lots closed. Tried to eat at Osteria Nonna Gina (thanks for the recommendation, Sarah)…but it was closed 🙁 Tried another favorite…also closed. Took a chance at an outdoor spot on the Piazza del Mercato: Cafe Finistra. Jeff had dishes he raved about (ravioli al ragu, chicken with rosemary, and Tuscan beans 'faigoli bianche'). Unfortunately, I had to eat lite due to the onset of something icky. Either food poinoning or a 24-hour virus. A cold shower followed by restless sleep. I will live 🙂

Met a couple from Greensboro, North Carolina (two NC duos in our short stay) over our final breakfast at the Badia B&B. Packed and said our goodbyes to our fine hosts Bruno and Frank. A short walk through quiet Sunday-morning streets to pick up our car from Avis. Royal blue diesel Kia Cee'd…not at all sure what this car is named for.

Emily got a new memory card and is now "aware" of Italy. She did a great job guiding us thru the many winding roads and confusing signage. We reprogrammed her voice to Italian for kicks…much better than her British pronunciations of Italian roads.

The weather was beautiful for our drive south into Chianti. Stayed clear of the autostatas and twisted through the countryside. Stopped for a quick walk in tiny Inprutetta… famous around the world for its terra cotta creations…but not on Sunday. Not a single shop open.

Moved on to the town of Greve in the heart of the Chianti wine region. Still very sedated, but enough people for restaurants to be open in the central square. Ate on the square…pastas that hit the spot. Jeff had a celebratory glass of Chianti.

Emily's alter ego Patrizia guided us south past vineyards and olive trees. Long wide valleys…lush green dotted with red poppies in every nook. Hilltops capped by old towns. Swung around Siena and arrived via a southern entry…the Porta Tufi. Parked at one of the large city garages that sit at the old walled city edges.

Walked the last 15min to our little B&B…the cozy Palazzo Masi situated right in the heart of medieval Siena. Greeted by grinning Daniela and her husband, who wlecomed us back for our second visit.

At 7pm, Daniela directed us to a special treat, a colorful celebration in advance of the city's signature festival…the Palio in July. Today, the city announced which of the city's neighborhoods would compete in the Palio. At the Campo, last year's victors marched in with drums and flags and uniforms of green and red…their neighborhood colors. Brass trumpeters played from above, and neighborhood flags were hung in a ritual we only vaguely followed. Rival neighborhoods chanted and sang. A lucky glimpse of Siena's rich history.

Dinner at our favorite Sienese restaurant…Trattoria Papei…which seems to draw locals and visitors alike. Tuscan fare is very meat-centric (yay for me 🙂 Jeff's spaghetti al ragu di carne and my wide noodles with wild boar were both amazing. Our main dishes were equally flavorful: a rich chicken cacciatore and a tender beef fillet. (Mom…you would have loved the beef…VERY rare in the middle.) Finished the meal with capuccini and a decadent lemon cream torte topped with almonds and powdered sugar…YUM!

A long after-dinner walk up to the Duomo…our favorite church in Italy. Winding streets. Unexpected whimsical fountains.

As I write this entry with weary eyes, we can still hear the revelry on the Campo.

The Tuscan sun shined brightly this morning, when we ventured out after breakfast. Began our day at the 14th-century Basilica of San Lorenzo. Although lacking a finished facade, the church's interior is bright and full of famous treasures commissioned by the ruling Medicis. Brunelleschi, Donatello, and Michelangelo contributed. Also visited the quiet adjoining cloister.

The nearby streets were lined with the leather and garment stands leading to the Central Market. Il Mercato Centrale is full of food stands of all types: meats, seafood, cheeses, pastas, and produce. The "mystery meats" tested our fortitude…huge folded piles of tripe, stacked cow hooves, and pale pig snouts. Yum!

The image of the snouts faded and we grabbed lunch at Trattoria Anita. Spaghetti ragu, tagliatelle with porchini mushroom, and a creamy asparagus-topped chicken.

Dessert across the Ponte Vecchio at our (current) favorite gelateria…Santa Trinita. Visited the Chisea di Santa Maria del Carmine, with its famous Branacci Chapel. This frescoed chapel contains the iconic scene of Adam and Eve being cast from the Garden of Eden.

As the afternoon grew late, we headed through one of the old City walls, headed up a long, STEEP set of stairs, and arrived at the Chisea di San Miniato al Monte. A large beautiful church with almost no interior lighting…leaving the interior detials to be revealed slowly as eyes adjust to the darkness. An emerging scene of lovely frescoes, a painted beam ceiling, and gold-clad altars. At 5:30, the local monks begin to chant, filling the halls with a magical, soothing sound that surrounds you. Early evening views of city below. Returned with a short walk through a hillside rose garden full of amore. A peaceful stroll along the Arno.

Returned to Coquinarius for dinner. Fantastic Chianti and bruchetta to start. Two wondeful first courses: cheese and pear ravioli, gorganzola and bacon gnocci. Two hearty salads as our entrees. The only downside to dinner was watching the last two pieces of dreamy cheesecake go to another table while we sat and sat waiting for our waitress 🙁 We had revenge gelato from nearby Grano, famous for its artisan flavors…very good, but we enjoyed Santa Trinita better.

Too tired to go our, we strolled the city. Discovered a dual-guitar concerto echoing through the Piazza della Signora.