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After a relatively early breakfast, headed to San Marco and the bell tower (campanile) to beat the crowds. Morning above Venice is spectacular. The terra cotta roofs, the grey church domes, and the striking blue lagoon are all dramatic, yet softer than in the afternoon (and midday must be totally avoided). Descended the tower, and the crowds had arrived! Headed for less populated parts of the city and found the elusive Santi Giovanni e Paolo church (Saint John and Paul). This church was ordered by the Vatican (Dominican order) in the 13th century, begun in the 14th century, and completed in the 15th century (the plauge and all delayed things). Afterwards, crossed Venice to visit the Fenice opera house, which was meticulously reconsturcted after a fire devastated the famous structure in the mid 1990s. The new building is breathtaking. Lunch (again) on the Santa Maria de la Salute steps (yummy panini). Visited the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Picasso, Calder, Kadinsky, Chagall, Pollack, Rothco, Legere, Man Ray), which is displayed in her former Grand Canal-front home. Chris and Sherie arrived from Rome, so we met them in San Marco. Tasted traditional Bellinis at Harry’s Bar on the waterfront. Dinner, gelato, and mojitos in S. Margherita. Walked back to the hotel unded a bright moon in a cloudless sky.

Last night’s storms had blown through by morning. Awoke to clear blue skies and light breezes. Another yummy breakfast in the hotel. Took advantage of the perfect temperatures and…well…walked. Its what you do in Venice. Ducking into the occasional church to stare at muraled ceilings. Returned to a couple of favorite streets with some local artisan shops we had been eyeing: paper, glass, masks, books. If you choose wisely and select true artisan shops, every shop owner seems to have a story and a friendly smile. Discussing different marrionettes in one shop, for example, we learned the background on one of the classic Venitian figures: the “plague doctor,” whose long, down-turned white mask was packed with medicinal herbs to ward off the plague as the doctor tended to the sick. Ate panini’s for lunch on the cool marble steps of Santa Maria de la Salute overlooking the busy Grand Canal. Took the #82 vaporetto over to the Giudecca–the long, narrow island just to the south of Venice. Our first visit to the Giudecca. Toured the Tempio del SS. Redentore (a temple to the Most Holy Redeemer). This church was designed by Palladio in 1577 on orders from the Doge as thanks for delivering Venice from the plague, which killed over 50,000 people in Venice between 1575 and 1576 alone. (FYI, an unrelated figure: the current population of Venice is down to about 60,000 permanent residents…a third of the population 1950!) Spirits needed lifting after plauge talk, so it was time for gelato from our favorite spot in Campo S. Margherita. More walking and wandering. Circled and circled unsuccessfully without a map to try to find SS Giovanni e Paolo, an enormous church that somehow eluded us today. Gave up and had dinner in Campiello San Stefano as the rain returned. Topped off the day with jacuzzi baths to soothe aching muscles. Falling alseep to the rain and not-so-distant thunder.

At last…a HOT breakfast. Haven’t had one since London. Even better…this breakfast included a very good cappuccino. Pleasantly warm morning for a walk through the Dosoduro neighborhood to Santa Maria de la Salute…perhaps the most photographed church in Venice after the Basilica in San Marco. Caught the #42 vaparetto around Venice and out to the island of Murano…famous for its many centuries of glassmaking. Hadn’t been to Murano since our visit with Curt and Cheryl. Had a pleanant lunch on Murano, including fresh calamari (Cheryl would be proud). Bought several Murano glass items from a friendly glassmaker who told tall tales of his friendships with Menachem Begin and Telly Savalas–an unlikely pair to name drop. The cool morning turned into a warm and sunny afternoon, so the direct #5 vaparetto was in order. Photos of pigeons on the way through San Marco. Back to the hotel to drop off our glass objects d’art. Early evening stroll and then dinner along the canal facing the Giudecca. Pastas were excellent. Got ‘adventurous’ with fish dishes and ended up with fish mouths staring up at us. Thank goodness for post-dinner gelato. (Returned to one of Cheryl’s favorite gelato spots…we think it has declined and that Cheryl should return with us to sample new spots !) Walked off dinner as a light rain began. Caught a summer lightning show on the horizon over the Giudecca. The rain should make everything smell fresh tomorrow.

Awoke from a dream around 5:30 just long enough to hear the train whistle blow as we paused at Milano Centrale for passengers to disembark. Alseep by the time train pulled out again. A couple of hours later, a light (very very light) breakfast arrived courtesy of the coachman. Arrived in Venice a short while later at the Santa Lucia station. Bought 3-day vaparetto passes. Discovered that the Grand Canal vaparetto routes were not running this morning. No explanation at the time, but learned later that a colorful regatta was being run today–large and small rowing craft crowded the Grand Canal. (These regatta seem to be good luck…we happened upon one last year as well.) Took a packed #51 vaparetto counterclockwise from the train station. Spotted not one, but SIX cruise ships berthed alongside the northwest tip of Venice…note to avoid San Marco during the day! Disembarked at the Zattere stop in the Dosudoro section and checked into our hotel: the Ca’ Pisani…a fun, hip “high design” hotel with a rooftop terrace that feels like it is sitting on top of the city. Had a much needed lunch in Campo S. Stefano. Walked our butts off criss-crossing the city. Stopped for gelato at our favorite gelateria in Campo S. Margherita. More walking. Bright sun and the need for a restroom brought us back to the hotel for a shower and some relaxing on the terrace. Watched a cruise ship drift by taller than the city itself…taking people away hopefully 🙂 Venturing out for dinner after 7pm revealed a much quieter city. Ate at a pizzaria that we found last visit: Rosa Rossa. Caprese. Two pizzas. Chianti. And an amazing tirimisu for dessert. Took the long way home after dinner. Wandering lost among the canals at night is a favorite activity. Took a nighttime ride up the peaceful Grand Canal on the #1 vaparetto. Really need to sleep well tonight.

Awoke to an honest-to-goodness sunny day. Checked out, packed the Citroen, and headed out of Amboise. Drove down the Loire River to the first of two chateaux–Villandry. The Renaissance-style chateau was built around 1535. The true highlights of this stop are the stunning terraced gardens, including a tranquil water garden with large pools and fountains, ornamental knot gardens of boxwood borders with flowering interiors, and the expansive ‘kitchen garden’ that uses flowers and herbs and vegetables to create colorful, intricate patterns. There are two plantings and harvests each year…so the colors change with the seasons. Leaving Villandry was hard. Next stop was sleepy Langeais. In spite of all the trappings of a fun stop, this one just disappointed. Just tired perhaps and ready for the train ride to Paris and our connection to Venice. Took one last leisurely drive down the Loire. Grabbed a quick bite to eat. Topped off the gas tank (a winding adventure on its own). Reuturned the car in St. Pierre-des-Corps and boarded the TGV for Paris. Voit 13, Place 62/63. Arrived in Paris at Gare Montparnasse. Took our old friend the Metro #6 line to Gare de Bercy, our departure train station for Venice. (There are seven train stations in Paris, which can be a bit confusing.) boarded the Artesia de Nuit overnight train to Venice. Treated ouselves to a private sleeping coach. Coach 92, compartment 21/25. Sat reading and writing in peace and quiet with the sun setting and the French countryside out the window. Saw broad rivers and quiet riverside towns; trainyards and factories and trees catching the setting sun; weekend campers with their campfires; small private vegetable gardens and expansive tree-boardered fields; distant churches on hilltops: the huge orange sun on the horizon; sheep. At 9:45, the coachman came and turned down our beds. Two bunks in a private room…this is sweet. The sun set shortly after 10 signaling the time to head for the dining car. Dinner was served near the town of Dijon. Pasta with tomato and basil…pork cutlets with baby potatoes…some sort of tort…fresh fruit…and chianti (of course). Finishing this entry as the sway of the train lulls us to sleep.