Tuesday (Venice)…

Nearby church bells stirred us at 7:30, and then again at 8:00…a helpful snooze alarm. This is how Venice wakes up. Birds calling. Windows being opened to bring in the cool morning air. Clicking heels of a Venetian woman walking by. A workman beginning repair work on the street below. The low hum of delivery boats on the Grand Canal. Even a car-less city builds up quite a cacophony of lively noise.


Our apartment is in the perfect place to launch the day. We began with a proper visit to Santa Maria dela Salute. The interior had significant portions under renovation (something is ALWAYS under renovation), but the interior still stirred us as it does every visit.


We wandered the main route through the Dorsoduro neighborhood, past galleries and shops. Colorful paper-clad boxes. Intricately costumed marionettes. Prints and painting from the scenic to the abstract to the erotic. Murano glass formed into every shape. Anchored by the popular and influential Peggy Guggenheim Museum, the Dorsoduro is a prime area in the upcoming Biennial which starts June 1. A beautiful peaceful neighborhood. Far from the throngs of San Marco.


We brunched at a quick spot near the Academia. Simple but delish sandwiches with ham and egg (Jeff) or tomato (John). And of course a cappuccino to start the day right.


Today we walked. And walked. A lot.


Venice is a comfortable place for both of us. Jeff has been here six times, and for me, five visits. So Venice is the old friend that you can talk with for hours on end even if it has been several years.


We set out (sort of) destination at the other end of Venice…the Biennial park to be precise…and just winged it in between. We criss-crossed the city hitting major and minor neighborhoods. We fought throngs of tourists on some narrow streets, while others were deserted. We passed major sites like the Friari and the Arsenale, and tiny dead-end alleys. Canals, bridges, and gelato at every turn. A sad graffiti clown…discovered again.


The streets leading to the Biennial park are all primped out for this impressive celebration of the arts, music, and culture. But nothing open yet…not even a bookstore. So we had a sandwich and a beer and watched boats bob in the late afternoon sun.


Our return route to the hotel ran right along the wide fondamente that runs all the way to San Marco. As you would expect, the throngs pick up substantially with each step in the direction of San Marco. But people watching is all part of the experience, Rusty, so we trudged on past the pop-up trinket stands, through Piazza San Marco–which is impressive with crowds or not–and back towards the Accademia bridge.


Dinner was at the impressive Osteria – Enoteca Ai Artisti. A wonder bottle of wine from the local Veneto region. Fresh mozzarella and tomatoes. And two subtle fish dishes…so very good. And of course we needed some tiramisu to finish. A very fine meal indeed.


Mojitos at Improntu to finish the evening. And a quiet walk back to the apartment…with a quick detour to Salute…so haunting at midnight. A strong cool breeze picked up, adding a notable chop to the canals.