Tuesday (Merzouga to Ouarzazate)…

We were awoken before dawn by a muffled thump and soft “Hello?” by one of the camp attendants. We hastily dressed and climbed a short distance up a nearby dune. The walk revealed still-tender muscles from the camel ride the night before. The air was crisp-yet-warm.


Turning to the east we saw the first sliver of the sun as it began to inch over the distant mountains. Unlike anything we have seen before, the sun rose quickly…showing visibly fast progress. In a matter of literally 1-2 minutes, the sun was up…big and bright although still muted by the horizon’s morning haze. Our camels grunted nearby.


Youssef arrived to whisk us back to the hotel for a much-needed shower, a change of clothes, and a quick breakfast. And then we were off. We spent the day driving in the desert between the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountain ranges. No more dunes…only dry rocky desert, broken up by beautiful, lush palm oases.


Drove through Rissani and its oasis. The seemingly disorganized oasis revealed order upon further inspection: low mounds encircled tiny plots of land to capture extra water and provide deeper irrigation. Palms laden with huge bunches of ripening deep-yellow dates provided cooling shade. The road wound back and forth, criss-crossing now-dry stream beds…low bridges waiting in anticipation of the next flash flood.


Stopped at the tomb of the ancestor of the King and the patriarch of the current dynasty. A lush courtyard filled with palm dates. We were able to peek inside (but not enter) the mosque, with its ornate doors. As we drove on, school kids walked and biked in droves to start their school days. The air was warm, but a pleasant breeze cooled us in the car.


Back out in the desert, we stopped along the road to view dozens of curious mounds of dirt in the field. Turns out these were part of the irrigation system of hand-dug tunnels from the distant mountains. These mounds served as access points…not to remove water, but to provide sunlight and air to the tunnels, and to allow the removal of debris. A local guide led us down into a dry tunnel, and told a detailed tale. Naturally, we bought a couple of art trinkets in return. Nothing is ever free in Morocco.


As we made our way towards the Todra Gorge, we wound up above an enormous palm oasis, fed by the mountain river coming through the gorge. Stunning vistas of the lush green oasis bordered by hundreds of mud-brown buildings, climbing the dry surrounding hills. Walked through the cool, craggy gorge. A babbling stream stood in stark contrast to the desert vistas we had been enjoying only minutes before. A cozy hotel hugged the gorge walls and provided a nice bathroom stop. A small art competition showcased a dozen local painters.


Stopped for lunch at a tiny riad on the winding road back out of the gorge. Dined with our new friends Lynn and Greg as we overlooked green hills topped by the ends of the rocky gorge walls. Meat skewers over charcoal. A wonderful chicken couscous dish. A simple and yummy lunch stop.


Passed through an oasis valley known for its roses (although not at this time of year). A perfume factory sat idle waiting for the next crop of fragrant pink roses.


As the sun sank below the horizon, we entered the bustling town of Ouarzazate, very popular with Hollywood film productions. Stopped at an off the beaten path Berber rug shop so that Jeff could wheel-and-deal in his quest for a much-sought-after Beni Ourain rug. Jeff played the game well, and found a few worthy specimens including a beautiful Berber wedding blanket. We may return in the morning to attempt to seal the deal.


The Dar Chamaa Kasbah Riad was our home for the evening. A very charming place, with a serene interior courtyard and a lush back garden with an inviting pool. Showers and then dinner were a top priority. Salad, a luscious chicken, and a dreamy chocolate crepe were a welcomed end to the day. The Speciale Flag beers didn’t hurt either!! We sat by the pool and enjoyed our first wifi connectivity in a couple of days. The sky lit up again with a brilliant star show as the hotel shut off its lights. How peaceful.