Tuesday (Fontevraud L’Abbaye to Brantôme)…

 





 
Another wonderful breakfast at Fontevraud. Warm dappled light lit up the interior cloister. A dove or two cooed in the trees outside as we packed. The light breeze that accompanied us as we walked to the car smelled like autumn. Explored a few new rooms in the abbey, including an underground tunnel for water. 

The notable appeal of nearby Château de Brézé is its “chateau on top of a chateau” feel. Subterranean tunnels carved into the limestone tufa date back a thousand years. Cool silence interrupted by muffled footsteps. A network of uneven tunnels housed troglodytes in the Middle Ages, including stables for their horses. Later, these former dwellings provided limestone tufa for the construction of the chateau above … and of course ideal storage for wine 🙂 

In later years, the tunnels also served as an access route to the deep, dry moats that surround the above-ground chateau. Circling clockwise, we explored side tunnels used as subterranean ovens, pressing rooms, wine aging, etc. 

Returning to ground level, we entered the main chateau, built from 1569. Typical of well-lived houses, the chateau was modified and enhanced and re-decorated over the years. The result is a chateau with elements in the Renaissance and Neo-Gothic styles. 

A 16th century pigeonerie was filled with thousands of holes for pigeons (3700 birds!! … the largest in western France). We learned earlier that the chateau allowed villagers to bake for free in the subterranean ovens as compensation for pigeon devastation to local crops. Go figure. 

Our evening destination lay a few hours to the south and east, in the rustic Dordogne region. This region feels earthy, and is famous for its natural beauty, it’s prehistoric cave paintings … and it’s amazing food like foie gras. 

We arrived in tiny Brantôme as the sun was waning. Checked into the super-charming Le Moulin de L’Abbaye, the abbey’s former mill complete with mossy waterwheel. We headed out immediately to catch the warm afternoon light on the water. Ducks paddled quickly by.  

The sun set on a beautiful, peaceful day. 

Dinner was a special treat in the hotel’s river-side restaurant. So many special courses, highlighting flavors of the region and the season. Figs and pears played prominent roles. Rich foie gras and truffles. Pheasant and pig. In every dish, each flavor stood out distinctly and yet at the same time blended seamlessly with one another. Beautiful. And the wines…what can I say. Each one paired perfectly…as it was meant to be. Truly one of the most memorable meals we’ve ever be fortunate to have.