Thursday (Versailles to St. Malo)…

 





 
We arose with tired limbs but an adventurous spirit. After a hearty breakfast quiche Lorraine paired with a flaky pain au chocolate, we locked the apartment door behind us, walked a few short blocks to the SNCF train station, and picked up our car from Avis. Emily sprung to life after a couple of years absence and guided us smoothly out of town. With a fleeting glimpse, the Chateau de Versailles begged us to return soon. 

Ironically, the first stop for our grey Citreön Picssso was the pastel gardens of Claude Monet. Giverny seemed like a relatively short drive from Versailles. 

Monet draws quite a crowd, even on a drizzly Wednesday. His gardens expose the inspiration for his palette. His house exposes his (literal) window on the world and and his clever appreciation for whimsy. His appreciation of color flowed from home to garden seemlessly. And his water lily ponds…well they are truly a sight to be seen. On the surface, just a peanut shaped pond with scattered water lilies. 

But wait. 
The breeze blows and the water shimmers…just a bit. Suddenly these lilies are surrounded by a gentle rhythm of motion. Then the sun comes out from behind dark rain clouds. Now the reflections on the ripples pick up the lush willow trees and colorful pops of wildflowers. Monet’s genius is revealed. 

After a stroll through the quiet town of Giverny’s galleries and restaurants, we headed on for St. Malo…our magical destination on the Brittany coast. 

Legendary and ethereal Mont St Michel towered on the low hazy coast as we exited the freeway. Perfectly lit in the late afternoon sun, it called to us. No wait…resist…that’s for tomorrow. 

Arriving at the old walled city of St. Malo, we parked just outside the Grand Porte. Our boutique hotel for the evening–La Maison des Armateurs–lay a few short steps inside the gate. 
The fast-setting sun hastened our pace as we hurried to the city ramparts, which completely encircle the old town. Brooding clouds mixed with warm sun, filling the sky and the broad bay in front of us with drama. Jeff shared fond stories of his previous visit with Matt, and how the sudden tide covered their pathway back from a rocky outcropping topped with old fortifications.  

As evening set in, we dined on hearty galettes, crepes, and wine on the top of the ramparts. A perfect meal to warm our bodies and prepare us for the chilly stroll ahead.
Salty air filled our lungs as we circled the quiet city. 

On our way back to the hotel, we were lured into comfy L’Univers with its square-side seating, bright orange decor…two glasses of Carignan rouge, please. The Girl From Impanima played inside. The swallows chirped and swooped in the dark skies overhead. Two more glasses, please. 

What a perfect day.