Tag / Slovenia

An early start was further hastened by a 9am electricity shutoff for hotel repairs. Breakfast and checkout by a quarter til and we headed for the nearby Italian border. Now that Croatia is in the EU, the former border crossing station has been shuttered and the road just zips through with barely a notice. Still, Italy feels immediately like Italy. Building colors shift in favor of that Italian yellow and orange stucco.


Our route took us through tiny Cividale del Fruili. Looped a couple of times through the historic center to check out the church and narrow stone bridge. Jeff hopped out to catch a couple of pictures, but we kept on moving!


The bustling university town of Udine was next, with it inviting historic center. Tree-lined streets and little parks everywhere. This struck us as a very livable city. We found metered parking (just a couple of Euros for our few hours) and climbed the steep, cobbled path up to the Udine Castle, which now holds a museum. The museum was closed for the day, but still provided panoramic views of the old city below. Descending onto the other side of the hill, through a lion-topped arch, and we found ourselves thrust into Venice. The buildings and statues and even the clock tower…all built to reflect the grandeur of Venice. Nearby, it the surrounding old town, we were reminded of Florence, with it’s distinctive architectural style. We certainly aren’t in Slovenia any more!! Ducked into the Duomo…cool and dark…echoes of muted footsteps…a dozen side chapels with typical paintings. Nearby, we grabbed a sandwich and a Coke Light and enjoyed the midday passers-by. We returned to our car via an old archway next to a slow, winding canal.


From Udine, narrow city streets led to the A4 autostrada…on to Venice! The low Italian countryside of the Veneto region flew by.


It’s odd to arrive into Venice by car. But we have arrived by plane and train, and there is always a first for everything. We parked in Venice at the Tronchetto parking garage, which is a modern island near the bridge that brings cars and trains across the lagoon. But a quick hop on the new “people mover” shuttle and we were car-free and immersed in the land of canals and bridges.


We had some extra time, so we opted to walk to our apartment versus riding the vapporetto. A scenic route that thrust us right back into Venice, but quite tiring as well. Lifting luggage over stepped bridges is a pain.


We met Ettore who runs several apartments with his family. Our comfy apartment was on the first floor on a quiet side street in the Dorsoduro neighborhood.


Unpacking later. It’s time to walk and get dinner. We re-traced familiar routes like we had been in Venice yesterday. (It has been since 2008!). Made our way to an old favorite…Impronta. Luscious mojitos. Mouthwatering linguini carbonara and duck gnocchi. Tirimisu just like we remembered!


After dinner, we wandered dark, silent, familiar passages. We got turned around a couple of times. We purposefully took random turns several times…in sheer wonder.


We are so happy to be back 🙂

Awoke to light breezes, dappled sunlight, and an incessant cuckoo in the nearby forest. Although not as fancy as the Cubo breakfast, the Kapp breakfast still had hot eggs and crispy bacon…and cappuccinos….so no complaints here! Packing after one quick night was super easy, and we hit the road with helpful pointers from Peter (the owner).


Emily (with helpful tips from Rick Steves) plotted a winding route through the Julian Alps to our evening stay in Kobarid. But first a drive through the lush, grassy foothills to the north of Bled. The air was rich with wet-grass thanks to light morning showers.


Skirted the Austrian border until we came to Kranjska Gora, where we began our narrow winding path up into the mountains. Tight hairpin turns were cobbled to improve traction. Drizzle became indistinguishable from heavy fog collecting and dripping from the tall pines. Grey peaks laced with remnants of spring snow played peak-a-boo through moody mist.


Stopped briefly at a tiny wooden chapel–the Ruska Kapelica–built in 1917 by Russian POWs to commemorate their fallen comrades as they built this important World War I road through the Julian Alps. The chapel sat peacefully in a clearing in the pines, next to a snow-fed spring, with tiny bunches of white and yellow wildflowers. Another cuckoo in the distance. The air was sweet.


Continuing up, we passed the snow line, and finally the Vršič pass at 1611 meters. Eight degrees Celsius didn’t feel cold, the snow LOOKED cold.


The mountain-fueled rain picked up in earnest. Down we wound–a total of 50 hairpin turns up and down–passing old WWI-era tunnels, supply lines, and border checkpoints marking the Italy-Austria Hungary war time border. We learned that the Julian Alps are enclosed in Slovenia’s only national Park: Triglav.


We joined up with the Soča river as it wound down out of the snowy peaks above. It was crystal clear, tinted turquoise by the sediment it carried. We passed vehicles carrying adventurers and their kayaks…ignoring the rain in favor of a colder kind of wet in the river. A striking waterfall–the second highest in Slovenia–caught our eye off to the right. The falls were full and brilliant. Further down, we stopped in the white-water base of Bovec. The rain let up, and we celebrated with warm pizzas: mine with a super-spicy salami; Jeff’s with ham mushroom and an egg. They really hit the spot.


Dropping further down the Soča, we arrived in compact Kobarid and checked into the Hotel Hvala. Kobarid had a storied history and an award winning museum to show it. The Kobaraski Muzej was named European Museum of the Year in 1993 for it’s striking view of World War I through a simple presentation of photos and artifacts of war.


We opted for a light dinner with a Slovenian ravioli–Žlikrofi–accompanied by cool beers. The rain returned as we reached our hotel, building into an impressive thunderstorm. The rhythm of raindrops on rooftops brought on a pleasing drowsiness.

In defiance of the grogginess of a late night wandering, dodging rain drops, and blogging, we arose early, re-packed, and indulged in another hearty Cubo breakfast…mmmmm crispy bacon.


We pointed Emily to the lakeside town of Bled, and headed out under a brilliant blue sky. The outskirts of Ljubljana were rain-washed and colorful…every parklet a lush, over-grown green. A hop on the highway…130 kph…a few impressive tunnels to save some time, and whooosh…45 minutes to Bled.


Bled is a cute, one-stoplight town at one end of a beautiful alpine lake. Checked into the Penzion Kaps, a small, two-story hotel with that stereotypical alpine-looking blonde-wood siding. The owner greeted us with enthusiasm and oriented us to our afternoon activities.


We grabbed a spot on a boat heading across the lake to Bled’s signature attraction: the tiny mid-lake island topped by a steepled church. It’s right out of a storybook, and worth every penny. The ride across was choppy, but provided views of the towns castle (more on that), the surrounding green hills and snow-laced mountains, and the former home of Yugoslavian uniter and favorite communist leader…Tito.


Our visit to the island was brief–limited to 30 min–but the Church was charming. It’s grand staircase was lit up and dramatic, and we got to ring the church bell!! Apparently ringing the bell brings good luck. We both rung it several times. A strong effort is needed, and one poor older women taking her turn was nearly dragged across the floor riding the much heavier bell than her small frame. We decided it would make a great new fitness craze…who needs P90X.


New Emily guided us to our next destination…Bled Castle. After paying our 8€, we walked onto to the lower terrace to be faced with an incredible view of the Bled Lake valley below. Sheer rock cliffs drop away dramatically leaving a wide open panorama of the mountains and lake below. After snapping our fill of photos, we ducked into the Museum. Though modern and labeled in English, the exhibit of artifacts was a little underwhelming, so we ventured back out to enjoy the real delight of this site…the view. Since the clouds and light were changing dramatically with a strong wind, we snapped another round of pictures. At least one should turn out well…right? Being in no rush to leave, we settled into a cozy pair of seats on the terrace with stunning views to enjoy an afternoon refreshment…two Laško beers. Finishing up, we took one last stroll around the grounds to partake the views and headed back to our Alpine abode.


To wrap up the day before dinner, we took the 6km walk around the perimeter of the lake. What a beautiful, beautiful lake from every angle. Nesting swans on low nests of gray twigs. A momma duck guided her fuzzy brown and black ducklings as the played in the current of a stream. Crew teams practiced at the Olympic rowing center. And the views of the church and the castle just got better as the sun sank.


Dinner was at nearby Restaurant Mayer. Asparagus is in season, with it’s own special menu. Jeff tried the asparagus with turkey cutlets. I opted for pork medallions with mushrooms.


Winding down with the soothing scent of cool mountain air, we were startled by a sudden explosion…that turned out to be fireworks over the lake…each whistle and crackle and boom reverberating across the valley…building layers of echoes until the shows bombastic crescendo.


Back to complete silence.

Extra comfortable pillows and a hot rain shower warded off grogginess. Awoke to imposing gray skies, but no rain…yet…its coming. Began the morning with a hearty breakfast at the Cubo: lots of fresh items plus eggs and bacon!! Jeff had a yummy omelette with mushrooms and cheese. Two frothy cappuccinos served by the friendliest of staff. No better way to start the day.


Glimpses of blue skies as we set out. We strolled past parliament. The US embassy was housed in an ornate building with traditional carved wooden details…and non-traditional security cameras and armed guards. Next door, a stark-white marble modern art museum.


Ljubljana’s Orthodox Church, built in 1932, has a simple, compact exterior topped with plain domes and golden Orthodox crosses. The interior, however, was anything but simple. Tiny in size, the cross-shaped interior was adorned with colorful, intricate icons and Biblical stories. A calm staffer described in reverential detail a small, framed icon painted with vibrant colors on shiny gold. Above the altar, a mural of the last supper adorned an arched cove. The church was quiet…we were the last visitors before midday closing.


Our return loop to the hotel passed more museums and the national Opera and Ballet. As the rain returned, we passed a festive crowd defying the weather and celebrating the annual end of high school (?) or university (?) or something. It was loud.


Passing through the colorful, daily farmers market, we set our sights on our next destination…the Ljubljana Castle…perched high above the old city on a tree-covered hill. A nice bonus on a rainy day is the quick funicular, which whisks you up the hill without a drip or a puddle. The glass-and-metal funicular is part of a modern renovation of the castle, which added lots of visitor comforts, including a high-tech history museum of Slovenia and a “virtual castle” movie. A highlight was the clock tower, with wet-but-unobstructed 360 views of the city and surroundings. The oddest part of the visit was an art/music exhibit “re-mixing” 100 years of Camel cigarette ads…quite unexpected in a historic castle.


Back down the funicular, a quick walk along the river, and we found the perfect place for a snack. Lolita tempted us with a few dozen sweet treats, but we settled on two: a mout-watering, warm waffle drizzled with warm chocolate and the national dessert, a Gibanica (layers of phylo dough, apples, nuts, cheese, and poppy seeds…decadent!). Coffee washed it down and warmed us up.


Energized, we strolled the river, checking out the myriad of criss-crossy bridges. The triple “three wishes” bridge is a favorite for its triple pedestrian span. A modern wooden-plank pedestrian bridge was adorned with freakish sculptures of twisted figures and ghoulish creatures…it’s side railings full of locks left by lovers. And the “dragon bridge”, anchored by green dragons, the symbol of Ljubljana. All the while, the river gurgled slowly below, a deep green cast from the surrounding trees and overgrown wildflower banks.


After waiting a bit last night, we wisely made dinner reservations tonight at another Cubo recommendation: Restavracija Spajza. These folks were so warm…it’s the kind of spot you would want to eat every night. Our table was a bit delayed, so they placated us with a glass of sparkling wine…bonus. Pictures of the young chef/owner peppered the wall at the entry…poses with hunky football players and Olympians…and Christopher Lee from Lord of the Rings! (The Olympians are hotter, but Saruman has that awesome voice.)


Dinner was simply amazing. We did the chef’s tasting menu…full of hearty Slovenian dishes…each course surprising and inventive. Highlights included a soft, creamy goat cheese ravioli covered in a luscious pheasant ragu; tender venison medallions in red wine reduction; and a fantastic rendition of the Slovenian Gibanica. The dishes went quite well with a fantastic Slovenia merlot.


After dinner mojitos along the river at Solist Bar, rain paid a surprise return and sent us scurrying back to the hotel.

Our wanderlust freshly energized by our just-finished photo show, Jeff and I set off on our next adventure. Our itinerary is packed with new places, but our first hop is well worn. Strong westerly winds added some bumps to an otherwise uneventful United flight to Frankfurt. A few glasses of wine took the edge off and encouraged a few zzzzzzzz’s.


In Frankfurt, we spent a couple of hours in Lufthansa’s Senators Lounge…quiet, but hotter than a greenhouse. Ice-cold sofa and easy wifi relaxed us as we watched carefully choreographed cargo loading…ginormous planes bound for exotic destinations around the world.


Our plane to Zagreb, Croatia was not ginormous. We lifted off as a light drizzle began to dot the windows. The lush green countryside surrounding Frankfurt was quickly hidden by persistent, low clouds. A few brief glimpses of the snowy Alps before descending below the clouds, across the fertile farmland of Croatia, and into the tiny airport of Zagreb. Good fortune placed us near the front of the line for Passport Control. We hit a bit of a bump picking up our rental car. Avis was…um…out of cars, but arranged an equivalent rental with a small local company. Time will tell if this is all a big scam, but it all felt legit and our Peugeot rides well. And frankly, the nice woman who patiently answered all of our driving, border crossing, tolls, etc. questions was comforting.


We are saving our day in Zagreb for the end of the trip, so today we hopped immediately on the highway and headed for the Slovenian border. Drizzle turned to rain and then back to drizzle. Tiny towns with church steeples whizzed by. Our new Emily GPS guided us quickly and with little fuss…through a Croatian toll, through Croatian border exit, to the Slovenia border entry, and finally to purchase a Slovenian toll pass (a vignette). (Croatian toll roads charge by the kilometer, where Slovenia requires the purchase of a weekly or monthly toll pass.).


About 90min after leaving the Zagreb airport, we arrived at the Hotel Cubo in Ljubljana, the cozy capital of Slovenia. Cubo is a stylish boutique hotel in the historic center, and our room felt inviting after a long day of travel.


We set out in the drizzle to catch a bit of the Old Town sights before they closed. Crossed the lazy Ljubljanca River via a wooden pedestrian bridge. Visited the town’s Baroque cathedral, every nook decorated with a painting or a gilded statue. The domed ceiling had colorful scenes. A few elderly locals prayed in the quiet corners.


We strolled the Old Town…a few winding streets with cute alleyways. Local shops with chocolates and art were interspersed with coffee shops. The rain seemed to keep people away. We felt like the entire display was for our amusement. As the rain fell harder and dusk settled, we strolled along the quiet river. Steep walls along the river were broken up with occasional walkways. A long, solitary river boat carried a dinner group.


Returned to the room with cold squishy feet for a brief respite. The friendly front desk made a dinner recommendation in the Old Town…perfect. The drizzle ended. We took a leisurely walk to cozy Julij…clearly popular, since the rest of the Old Town seemed desolate at this hour. With no reservation, we waited about 20min…no worries…we were able to eye all the steaming food coming from the tucked-away kitchen. The decor was French, but the food was hearty Slovenian. My beef dish was rich and served with sweet cheesy dumplings. Jeff’s turkey medallions had a rich mushroom sauce and crispy polenta. A bottle of Slovenian Pinot Noir. And a delicious apple strudel drizzled with fresh honey to finish. Pure delight!


The rain was holding off, so we strolled the quiet Old Town. We found a quiet river side bar with cushy chairs and soothing lounge music. A couple more glasses of wine to discuss the day and plan tomorrow.


Hot showers rinsed away the grime of a long, long day. Fell into a big bed with an inviting duvet. Sleep…deep sleep…satisfying sleep…came quickly.