Tag / London

A week in the UK is so easy to pull off with direct flights from SFO, and it is one of our favorite ways to recharge our wanderlust. There is an energy and a style and a sophistication that is uniquely British that we relate to and long for.

We took one more morning walk into Mayfair. Fortune was smiling on us, as the clouds held off one last time, allowing only a light mist to moisten our walk. As we had done several times before, we passed by the American Embassy on Grovesner Square. This morning, the lines seemed particularly long. Perhaps they weren’t, but they stood as a reminder of the just-started Federal shutdown and the ups and downs of American politics. Funny to see it through the eyes of the British media. We made our way to a menswear shop (TM Lewin) in Mayfair to check out a dashing charcoal, wool coat. Third time’s a charm…fit me like a glove!

Back to the hotel to grab our bags and get to Heathrow. Terminal 1. Seamless transit through check-in and security gave us an hour to relax in the Star Alliance lounge before our flight.

We miss ye, ole London town. And we already have a list of the the things we couldn’t squeeze in this visit!!

On our flight home, we filled out the customary U.S Customs forms. Question 3: “Number of family members traveling with you.” “Zero.” This is the last year I will have to enter that lie.

What a great year.

Cheerio. Pip pip. 🙂

We arose with a keen sense that this was the final full day in another wonderful chapter in our London adventures. We just can’t get enough of this city.

Today we pointed our feet north of the hotel…to Marleybone for a bit of window shopping and serene Regent’s Park. On the way, we stumbled upon the Wallace Collection Museum. The lure of “Free Admission” drew us in for a quick peek. Fortunately we did, because what a surprise find. The house–the former home of Sir Robert Wallace–is full of wonderful paintings, furniture, miniatures, and armor. The museum’s art is displayed in the former city mansion of Wallace. There are no ropes or barriers of any kind. One gets the feeling of wandering the stylish home of a well collected aristocrat. Renoirs and Rembrants are tucked away amongst other lesser know artists of the time. The quality and quantity of the art is staggering. Only in London with a rich patrimony of former Empire would this be an off the path museum. We definitely need to return to take in more of what this museum has to offer.

Leaving the museum, we continued on our trek and were soon taking in the chic shops of Marleybone which offer pricey temptations in brick-faced boutiques. Home furnishings, art, decorative tile…mmmmm, and sumptuous apricot tarts.

The charm of Marleybone quickly gives way to the harried bustle of streets just before Regent’s. We ducked into a church where a hidden organist practiced on a hidden pipe organ, filling the quiet hall with a flurry of slightly off-key sinister-sounding notes that were still preferable to the traffic outside.

We turned onto the most famous block of Baker Street. A blue historical marker adorned the side of fictional 221B Baker Street, the fictional home of Sherlock Holmes. Kitschy as the site is, the recent (and awesome) BBC Sherlock series ensured that the “museum” and gift shop were popular. Patrons donned the famous deerstalker hat for photos.

Entered Regent’s Park through the Clarence Gate and strolled around the Boating Lake. We stopped to nibble on sandwiches from Eat. Watched kids chase pigeons and ducks and geese, all of whom clamored for bread crumbs from screaming kids. Gray skies minimized the boaters on the lake, and the waterfowl were thrilled. We paused for a peaceful spot on a romantic bridge to appreciate the quiet romance of the park. Two swans longingly mirrored each other in either side of a barrier fence, longing to be together. Ducks and gulls seemingly demonstrated how to fly over the fence, but these swans were earth-bound and their love went unfulfilled. Jeff and I grabbed each other’s hand in appreciation of what we have together.

Passing busy soccer fields, we joined the tree-lined Broad Walk. Walkers and bikers formed an orderly procession under a canopy of trees just beginning to show yellowing signs of autumn. The walk’s flower beds were in full autumn autumn, and their freshly tilled soil provided a sumptuous hiding spot for nut-burying squirrels and pecking birds.

Our return route to the hotel looped us back through Marleybone where we took a coffee break. And a bit more shopping…of course…stumbling upon Christopher Place which is a pedestrian pocket tucked between major streets lined with restaurants and shops.

After a short break at the hotel, we headed back out to meet Jeff’s dear friends from Michigan…Lynn and Jeff…in London to visit their son Ethan. We had wonderful Neapolitan pizza and stimulating conversation near Covent Gardens. Strolled for creamy gelato from Scoop afterwards. After saying our fond goodbyes, we wound our way back to The Yard in SOHO to wrap up the evening with a couple Mahou from Madrid which fondly reminded us of our trips to Spain.

Building rain clouds held their drops but trapped the day’s heat, making for a warm walk back to the hotel.

Another fantastic breakfast at the Strattons, and we hit the road. Wanting to squeeze in one final country estate before catching our train back to London, we headed straight for Burghley House.

Built originally in the 16th century by Lord Burghley, who served as chief counsellor of Elizabeth I, the house has been modified, cared for, and lived in ever since by his descendants. The care really shows, from the meticulous lawns and sculpted gardens outside to the vivid ceilings and lush tapestries inside. The house tour takes visitors in via a historic kitchen, complete with an enormous hearth with rotating spit for roasting meat. Learned that at one time, dogs on a treadmill powered the rotisserie! Up the ornate-carved stone Roman stairway to the main floor state rooms. The rooms are quite beautiful and varied. The billiard room was homey with a large green felt billiard table and oversized Turkish style divan…definitely 19th century additions. A cozy bedroom with large bed played host to Queen Victoria and Albert…apparently so well that they missed breakfast in the morning. A series of connected signature rooms (the George rooms) along one side of the house have colorful ceilings by Antonio Verrio who also painted similar ceilings at Windsor castle. The largest of the rooms is painted to impress and inspire: “Heaven” covers the ceiling and three walls with robed figures and mythological iconography. The room also holds an enormous solid silver wine cooler. Next door, in another grand staircase is “Hell,” complete with firery images of damnation surrounding you as you descend to the ground floor. The last room is a large Gothic hall with hammer-beam ceiling…famously used as the dining venue when Victoria and Albert stayed. Upon leaving the hall, a display showcased Lord Burghley’s Olympic Gold and Silver medals won in the 1930’s track events. The collection also includes a 2012 Olympic Torch from another legendary runner: Lord Coe.

Outside, we visited two gardens. One a traditional sculpture garden, albeit one with modern art scattered in clearings and alcoves in a wooded portion of the grounds. The second was the experiential Garden of Surprises, with hedge-separated rooms…each with a whimsical water feature. To finish our visit, we took a semi-loop around the house, along the sprawling manicured lawns. The afternoon sun lit up the house and reminded us how amazing Britain is in the autumn.

We returned our car in Peterborough, and grabbed a fast train to London, arriving into King’s Cross around half past five. We grabbed a taxi back to the Doubletree Marble Arch where we happily snagged an upgrade to much bigger room this time to finish the trip in style!

For our evening walk, we strolled down familiar paths and soaked up the atmosphere of a chilly night in London. We returned to Cây Tre in Soho for dinner…we had been craving their rich campfire beef and hearty Vietnamese fried rice since last week. A perfect choice for a repeat! Relaxing drinks at The Yard, followed by a late night walk full of random turns. We arrived back at the room after midnight with tired feel but rested minds.

An early Saturday morning start to get us on an early train north. We hopped a short 20min taxi to the King’s Cross train station and purchased return service on the East Coast line to Peterborough. 9:30am train. Platform 1.

In no time, we left the bustle of London and found ourselves in the idyllic English countryside. The warm morning sun lit up rolling, well-tended fields, purposefully outlined by rows of trees and dotted with the occasional sheep. Rippled ponds and the occasional slow river. The occasional swan for effect. A small group of young American women on their way to Scotland charmed a local with discussions of reality shows and New Jersey politics.

We de-trained at Peterborough and took a 10 minute walk to Avis to pick up our little VW Jetta. My first time driving in England. Stay on the left! Stay in the left! Stay on the left! No problem. Saturday morning traffic backed up the round-abouts on our mostly one-laned roads, but otherwise we zipped easily through the countryside.

Our main sight for the day, the Queen’s estate at Sandringham, a stately home steeped in history but exuding the warmth of a lived-in home versus a frozen museum time capsule. We approached the house via a gentle wooded path, bordered by countless varieties of woodland flowers and shrubs. Box-trimmed hedges picked up when the forest ended as we approached the main home.

We entered–we were told–just as the royal family would into a small entryway off a large sitting room. Such a contrast to the opulence of Buckingham Palace yesterday, this home immediately felt like a place you could plop down and read a book. The home is furnished just as it is used by the Queen…minus the velvet ropes. Personal nick-nacks adorn every mantle and side table. Framed photos. Carved waterfowl. Board games. Books. Table strewn with an unfinished puzzle. The walls throughout the house are hung with cozy family portraits–primarily Queen Victoria forward–and romantic scenes of the hunt. An extensive rifle and weapon collection fills many hallways. Room after room revealed a relaxing retreat for a family of constant formality. Rather than a house to impress, it stands as a repository to all the items that generations have accumulated and obviously still carry deep sentimental attachment.

In the home’s simple ballroom, a Jubilee exhibit presented an approachable number of photographs of the Queen at various points in time since her coronation. A fascinating retrospective of events and styles and locations. According to several sources we have read this trip, the Queen is the most photographed person in history, which makes this tidy collection even more impressive!

Exiting the house, we strolled to the nearby museum, housed in the livery buildings…formerly horses, now used for cars and carriages. We stopped for a quick sandwich and cake for afternoon tea, and then perused the small museum. The exhibits focused on the history of the house through the eyes and styles of each monarch since Victoria. An impressive collection of royal cars rounded out the exhibit.

With the sun sinking lower we wandered through formal gardens, along pea-gravel paths, and beneath lines of towering trees. The warm sun lit up the red brick and warm stone of the home. A shady path wound around a tranquil pond, providing a postcard scene to end the visit. As we exited the estate, we quickly popped into the church…a tiny chapel tucked away in a clearing. The interior was simple, but meticulously decorated and lovingly cared for.

A thirty minute drive transported us to the small town of Swaffham and our evening stay at the quirky Strattons hotel. The small hotel encompasses a number of traditional English buildings, turning each interior space into a unique, contemporary room. We stayed in CoCoes #1. How appropriate.

We sat in the cozy lobby and sipped a full-bodied Spanish Tempranillo before dinner. Fittingly, dinner was as creative as our stylish hotel. Seasonal local ingredients added fresh spins to hearty English fare. Blue cheese. Pears. Norfolk crab and sea bass. Luscious pork. We finished our meal with a delicious chocolate tart with a coffee ice cream.

We retired early and enjoyed the refreshing evening breezes carrying the chilly scent of fall leaves. We slept soundly.

The day began with a chilly breeze and gray overcast skies. Sounds like late September in London, doesn’t it? Warm eggs and hot lattes quickly energized us for another long day of walking!

Good fortune gave us one more day during the Buckingham Palace summer opening AND our free return visit from our tickets yesterday. So, we plotted a fun course through Mayfair, happening by the Egyptian and Saudi Arabian embassies. We quickly crossed quiet Green Park, accompanied only by a few dog walkers and early-start tourists.

We snagged timed entry tickets (free…yay!) with just a short wait. The trick with these same day tickets was to arrive just after the ticket booth opened at 9:00am. While we waited, we walked next door to the Queen’s Gallery and secured tickets for the afternoon. Our day was set!

Buckingham Palace: Take Two. For this visit, we decided to forgo the audio guide and just take in the rooms visually. The architecture and detail is so beautiful. Designed to impress…and it surely does. Just staring at the carved ceilings could occupy the mind for hours…each carving is ornate, purposeful, and symbolic. We also spent extra time in the long central gallery of paintings. It’s a relatively small collection (compared with a museum), but each piece is carefully selected and cared for. Another chance for coffee and snacks on the garden terrace.

The Queen’s Gallery houses various temporary exhibits through the year, exploring elements from the Royal Collection. The current exhibit–“In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion”–examined the importance and evolution of clothing in court life. What made this exhibit so fascinating was its approach to describing portraits not for the scene or subject, but for the significance of the fashion elements displayed in the painting. Elements such as use of specific color, the extravagance of specific fabrics, and even the significance of hats. It was an inventive, immersive way to explore a set of paintings and we simply loved it.

For our evening walk, we returned to Hyde Park. We settled into canvas deck chairs at the sexy Serpentine Gin Bar…we had wine…healthy pours of Tempranillo and Nero reds. Six-or-so green parakeets zipped across the sky. Swans and geese set off slow ripples on the otherwise placid Serpentine, catching the brilliant orange sky. A Jack Russell terrier with ears perked looked longingly at the birds. With its last colorful gasps, the sun lit up lines of lacey clouds in brilliant orange against the darkening blue sky.

Hyde Park slipped quickly into night, its thick trees blocking out the light of the city, leaving only the occasional lamppost to light its pathways. Bikes and walkers continue to emerge from and disappear back into darkness. We pointed ourselves towards the far end of the park, and took a long, leisurely walk along the Serpentine and then into the quiet, moist grassy, lawns of Hyde Park. At the end of the Park, Kensington Palace sat dark; its manicured gardens slept free of visitors.

After attempting a foolish Friday night drop-in to a popular spot we had visited previously with Jeanne and Sarah, we found a warm table at the lively Prince of Wales pub in Kensington. A couple of rounds of fresh draughts and tasty fish and chips. Pittsburgh Steelers fans in their black and gold crowded in for a pint. A friendly couple from New Zealand told us stories of being on their way home from a three-month trip.

We took the long long walk back along the north side of the Park. Bayswater Road provided yet another glimpse of life in this wonderful city. We slept soundly, knowing that tomorrow we were off to the English countryside!