Tag / journal

We awakened this morning by (of all things) a rooster tucked away in some nearby corner of the medina. Otherwise, there were no sounds rising from the medina around us. The sky was heavily overcast, but the cool light breeze was pleasant and calming.


We had a filling breakfast on our terrace. A wonderful omelet, fresh fruit, griddle cakes, and flaky pastries. Jeff fell in love with the strawberry preserve. Coffee perked us up.


Let me just say that the best thing about breakfast (even more than the fresh food) was a warm service. This riad has two visible staff…and they are so, so, so attentive. The benefit of a tiny riad. We can have breakfast wherever we like in the riad, depending on our mood. The staff are there just when you need them with a genuine smile and a helpful hand. Very, very comforting.


With a fresh energy, we headed out into the medina, loosely tracing a scribbled route from the riad to the main square via the souks. I would like to go on record and give Jeff major props for his adventuring spirit. He is having the time of his life barreling through confusing souks, fending off pestering “helpers”, and keeping us in the general direction we want to go. The medinas of Fes and Marrakech have definitely disoriented me…and I am still finding my sea legs. But all adventures make you stronger…which is why I blog to remember the happy times 🙂


The souks of Marrakech have a different character than those in Fes…and they are both special in their own ways. In spite of its narrow winding streets, the souks in Marrakech have a sense of order to them. We seemed to make logical decisions when we came to turns…although we did veer widely from our original course. But a sensible trick is to ignore the pleas of “come this way” or “there is nothing that way” and use your intuition to get out of the souks and then find your bearings on a map. The souks themselves have little in the way of landmarks…covered streets lead to bright stretches. The occasional open intersection is generally crammed with people and shops, making consulting the map almost impossible. But if you are willing to dive in and just walk…at a good pace…then you will see crafts and goods of every ilk. Jeff, of course, spotted a practical item shortly after entering the souks and bargained himself a good price. He is a brave one…bravo! Lamps and leather goods, carefully inlaid tables…and of course spices. I guess everyone wants the spices. We didn’t run across much produce or meats until much later in the day, but when we did, the aromas were quite enticing.


Marrakech’s souks are car-free, but they are definitely not motorbike-free. So, narrow winding streets have bi-directional pedestrians, bi-directional motorbikes, and the occasional wide delivery cart all squeezing between shops with goods spilling out onto the route. This adds an additional bit of frenzy for sure, especially if you throw in the eager salesman trying to call you into their safe haven. Cat like reflexes are advisable. And a nice bit of good karma.


We made our way to the main square of the medina…a crossroads of sorts, since all roads and itineraries eventually want to bring you here. Adjacent to the city’s main mosque (with its prominent minaret that sets a maximum height standard for buildings in the city), the square is bustling day and night, with locals and visitors cross-crossing in all directions.


We crossed the square to re-enter the souks and hit a couple of sights. The first was a medressa…a former school for studying the Koran. The medressa had been well-restored, and its tile work, courtyard fountain, carved woodwork, and detailed plaster work. A two-story warren of tiny stark rooms hugged the sunny, decorated courtyard. These rooms housed students and focused them on their studies. The rooms were grouped around mini-courtyards detailed with intricately carved wood.


Next we visited a nearby art museum, which was really an excuse to see another restored building. A beautiful courtyard had been covered to create a huge interior space surrounded by tiled rooms. A HUGE ornate wood-and-metal light fixture hung in the center of the grand space. Artwork (much of it contemporary) hung in the small rooms off the courtyard. The former hammam of the building with its circular ceiling portals also held pieces of art.


We returned to the riad to drop off our morning purchases…and to refresh with a cool beer on our terrace. The winds have picked up considerably…rain on the way tonight. Purple bougainvillea flowers swirled around the terrace, creating mesmerizing movement and sound to tingle the senses. A haze of dust is visible in our view of the late afternoon skyline.


Watched a line of tiny ants drag a dead fly across the bricks. Yay for the little guy. I hate flies. (Although for the record, there are FAR, FAR fewer flies in Marrakech than Fes or the desert.)


Refreshed, we set back out into the souks for an hour long walk as the sun set. The souks were transforming. Lights came on, and food shops began selling cooked items in earnest. Mixed meats on tiny skewers grilled on tiny charcoal fires. Smells of sweet and savory tangines baking. Fresh bread and eggs sat together on carts. The souks took on a much less frantic pace, although the motorbikes hadn’t slowed down. But the pestering helpers were mostly gone…surely to return tomorrow when the busses bring in the next load of unsuspecting visitors. Colors were much more vibrant at dusk, no longer washed out by the harsh midday sun. Slippers and gowns popped with vibrant colors.


Our first rain (other than the a brief downpour as we drove across the mountains outside of Fes) began as we relaxed at the riad before dinner. A cool steady rain moved us from our terrace to a cozy cubby off of one of the riad’s courtyards. The rain dripped from the high palms in the courtyard, splashing pleasantly. The air smelled crisp and fresh, in contrast with the dusty air this afternoon.


We walked to nearby Dar Zellij restaurant, which came highly recommended by Youssef and our riad. The riad space was beautiful, with ornate painted ceilings and plaster detail. Light fixtures cast dappled light over the room. Musicians played quietly. The restaurant was packed. We ordered a bottle of rosè to go with our meal…Jeff has successfully shown me the virtues of rosè 🙂 Several “salads” started us…wonderfully seasoned vegetable plates (including a delicious pumpkin dish that Jeff picked as his favorite). Chicken couscous and a lamb tangine. A flakey pastry and espresso to finish.


A walk in the rain felt nice after a full meal. We fell asleep to raindrops and a fresh cool breeze.

The rain shower head in our room felt wonderful this morning…hot and invigorating…truly unexpected in the desert. But isn’t that the definition of an oasis? Breakfast was a simple buffet with crepes and pastries and luscious coffee. We dined one last time with Lynn and Greg…truly a delightful couple we hope to keep in touch with after our itineraries diverge.


Lynn and Greg joined us in our return to the carpet shop to see if Jeff could make a deal. Greg (who is from Kenya originally) told me stories of Africa as we looked at objects and jewelry. Jeff and Lynn played hardball with the carpet salesman. I will leave the tale of the carpet sale to Jeff, but suffice it to say he got a very, very good deal.


After the sale, Lynn and Greg returned to the riad to start their drive. We said our goodbyes, hoping to meet them for a drink in Marrakech. We went to a nearby post office to ship Jeff’s new treasures home. A tale in and of itself.


More colorful deserts. More lush oases. What a beautiful country…full of contrasts, but at the same time a harmonious synergy. There is a natural equilibrium at work here. As Youssef stated quite eloquently today: everything has its purpose; if something doesn’t serve a purpose, then it doesn’t exist.


Ouarzazate is a huge home for Hollywood film production. The area provides a dramatic locale for scenes mimicking sites all over the Mediterranean and places as far away as Tibet. Youssef drove us out into the nearby desert to see fake fortresses and walled cities. Catapults and siege towers dotted the land. We stopped and knocked on one of the imposing stone fortresses…hollow. Truly fascinating.


Our first major sight for the day was a UNESCO-protected kasbah…Ait Ben Handou. Youssef found us a rocky vista with views across a wide oasis. The kasbah was dramatically nestled on a hillside above the oasis. Deep brown earthen walls formed boxy buildings that climbed the hill, seemingly on top of each other. We learned that this kasbah was the backdrop for the northern Africa scenes in the movie “Gladiator”…complete with a fake mini-coliseum (now dismantled). The view was breathtaking.


Heading back towards our main route, Youssef gleefully took a “short cut”, which was code for off-roading. We wove up and down thru bone-dry creek beds, following a twisting route.


To reach Marrakech, we had to climb through the Tichka pass, a long winding passage through the High Atlas. As we climbed from the desert below, we watched the mountains transform from reds and browns to almost a gray-green hue. Sun and soil…foliage and minerals…all played brilliantly to produce an ever-changing range of colors. We stopped at precarious overlooks along the route to stare up at majestic peaks, out across fantastic valleys, and down at the zig-zag roads below us.


We passed the top of the pass–the Col du Tichka–at a windy 2260 meters altitude.


Our route down was even more stunning, and we entered a wetter zone where trees and grass greeted us. Tiny villages and tiered gardens hugged every valley wall. Sheep and goats dotted the hillsides, with invisible herders always nearby.


We stopped for a quick bite on the road down. A tiny roadside cafe served an amazing Berber omlette in a bubbling hot tangine.


On the narrow road down, we passed truck after truck laden with live cattle, just-sold in Marrakech and off to butcher in the desert towns we had just left. Such a funny sight actually. The cattle were transported in rickety double-decker trucks…with cattle standing on the top deck. They had better views than the tourists crammed into sealed-up busses!


As we reached the bottom of the pass and flattened into the land approaching Marrakech, olive trees and palms re-appeared. We soon passed golf courses and other signs of the wealth in and around Marrakech. The suburbs of Marrakech were filled with manicured medians and carefully laid out parks. Roses and other flowers surprised us.


We entered the Medina walls…a vastly different experience than the medieval medina in Fes. This is a medina for tomorrow’s adventure and tomorrow’s tales, but our first impressions were energizing yet oddly comforting. The lanes narrowed considerably as we neared our riad. Cars, bikes, and scooters seemed to share the same physical space simultaneously. Throngs of everyday pedestrians, with a notable injection of foreigners. Again…oddly comforting.


The drivable street ended, and we made the last bit of our trek on foot…guided by Youssef and aided by a young teen with a cart to help carry luggage. Narrower and narrower lanes. And finally a non-descript door…the Ryad Dyor…our home for the next few days. We said our goodbyes to Youssef, certainly a new friend. Hopefully we will see him again to take a day trip during our stay.


The riad is very small, but beautifully appointed. It truly feels like a home, as it once was. We met the two young men staffing the riad for the day, and got a helpful orientation to the riad and Marrakech.


7:11pm and we are relaxing on our private rooftop terrace. Sipping a cool rosé in a light warm breeze. An evening call to prayer emanates from minarets all around us, filling the evening with a low peaceful chant.


We had dinner on our terrace…just the two of us and the night breeze. Three wonderfully fresh salad spreads with bread to start. Two piping hot tangines…one with beef and prunes in a rich sauce, the other a moist chicken with citrus and olives. Dessert was a simple-yet-luscious creme brûlée. What a wonderful way to end our long day.

We were awoken before dawn by a muffled thump and soft “Hello?” by one of the camp attendants. We hastily dressed and climbed a short distance up a nearby dune. The walk revealed still-tender muscles from the camel ride the night before. The air was crisp-yet-warm.


Turning to the east we saw the first sliver of the sun as it began to inch over the distant mountains. Unlike anything we have seen before, the sun rose quickly…showing visibly fast progress. In a matter of literally 1-2 minutes, the sun was up…big and bright although still muted by the horizon’s morning haze. Our camels grunted nearby.


Youssef arrived to whisk us back to the hotel for a much-needed shower, a change of clothes, and a quick breakfast. And then we were off. We spent the day driving in the desert between the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountain ranges. No more dunes…only dry rocky desert, broken up by beautiful, lush palm oases.


Drove through Rissani and its oasis. The seemingly disorganized oasis revealed order upon further inspection: low mounds encircled tiny plots of land to capture extra water and provide deeper irrigation. Palms laden with huge bunches of ripening deep-yellow dates provided cooling shade. The road wound back and forth, criss-crossing now-dry stream beds…low bridges waiting in anticipation of the next flash flood.


Stopped at the tomb of the ancestor of the King and the patriarch of the current dynasty. A lush courtyard filled with palm dates. We were able to peek inside (but not enter) the mosque, with its ornate doors. As we drove on, school kids walked and biked in droves to start their school days. The air was warm, but a pleasant breeze cooled us in the car.


Back out in the desert, we stopped along the road to view dozens of curious mounds of dirt in the field. Turns out these were part of the irrigation system of hand-dug tunnels from the distant mountains. These mounds served as access points…not to remove water, but to provide sunlight and air to the tunnels, and to allow the removal of debris. A local guide led us down into a dry tunnel, and told a detailed tale. Naturally, we bought a couple of art trinkets in return. Nothing is ever free in Morocco.


As we made our way towards the Todra Gorge, we wound up above an enormous palm oasis, fed by the mountain river coming through the gorge. Stunning vistas of the lush green oasis bordered by hundreds of mud-brown buildings, climbing the dry surrounding hills. Walked through the cool, craggy gorge. A babbling stream stood in stark contrast to the desert vistas we had been enjoying only minutes before. A cozy hotel hugged the gorge walls and provided a nice bathroom stop. A small art competition showcased a dozen local painters.


Stopped for lunch at a tiny riad on the winding road back out of the gorge. Dined with our new friends Lynn and Greg as we overlooked green hills topped by the ends of the rocky gorge walls. Meat skewers over charcoal. A wonderful chicken couscous dish. A simple and yummy lunch stop.


Passed through an oasis valley known for its roses (although not at this time of year). A perfume factory sat idle waiting for the next crop of fragrant pink roses.


As the sun sank below the horizon, we entered the bustling town of Ouarzazate, very popular with Hollywood film productions. Stopped at an off the beaten path Berber rug shop so that Jeff could wheel-and-deal in his quest for a much-sought-after Beni Ourain rug. Jeff played the game well, and found a few worthy specimens including a beautiful Berber wedding blanket. We may return in the morning to attempt to seal the deal.


The Dar Chamaa Kasbah Riad was our home for the evening. A very charming place, with a serene interior courtyard and a lush back garden with an inviting pool. Showers and then dinner were a top priority. Salad, a luscious chicken, and a dreamy chocolate crepe were a welcomed end to the day. The Speciale Flag beers didn’t hurt either!! We sat by the pool and enjoyed our first wifi connectivity in a couple of days. The sky lit up again with a brilliant star show as the hotel shut off its lights. How peaceful.

An extra-firm mattress couldn’t stop us from counting many, many sheep…or perhaps donkeys? We awoke refreshed, enjoyed a hot shower, and dined on a simple buffet breakfast. Coffee, breads with fruit spreads, honey-drizzled pastries.


Since we had arrived at the hotel in the pitch black of night, we truly had no sense of where we were. The strong morning light revealed a flat desert terrain around us with only a few tiny buildings out towards the horizons. Bright yellow-orange sand dunes sprung up nearby.


Today we traveled with Youssef’s gregarious cousin (also named Youssef…the operator of the tour company), who was driving a wonderfully charming Australian couple (Lynn and Greg) on a similar itinerary. Our two Land Cruisers, joined at the hip, set out to circle the portion of the desert we abutted.


First stop…a visit with the local Berber musicians from the night before. We sipped hot mint tea as they played traditional songs. They invited us to dance with them. We did.


Continuing on, we entered a clearly volcanic area. Black rock showed signs of lava flow. Orange desert sand was dusted in rocky ash from ancient volcanic activities. We stopped at an old mining area complete with now abandoned mud buildings. We skirted the closed border with Algeria on the horizon.


We visited with a nomadic woman and her son. Local guides help this woman by bringing visitors. She showed us warm generosity from meager means. We sat on rugs in her home…her simple tent. She prepared tea and offered us bread. Her young son (five-ish?) “drove” the guides’ trucks and lit up with sheer joy. A warm glimpse of a very different life from what we know.


Next stop was a typical well for water used by animals. The water table is quite high, and it was only 10ft deep. As we rounded the desert dunes, we passed a road rally. Trucks of various shapes sped by in the sand.


Returned to the hotel for lunch. A local “Berber pizza”…a large pocket of dough filled with spiced meats, onion, and tomato. It is buried on coals and covered with sand to bake. Truly wonderful and hearty.


About a half hour before sunset, we mounted camels for a trek to our desert stay for the night. Camels aren’t comfortable, but they surely are more sure-footed than we would be walking up and down sandy dunes. The dunes lit up as the sun sunk. Long shadows of us on our camels framed on the undulating, bright orange sands. The sun set in a magnificent glow beyond the dune peaks.


We arrived at our stay for the evening…a ring of Berber tents on the eastern edge of the sand dunes…perfect for sunrise views tomorrow. Inside the ring, carpets to keep out the chill and grit of the sand. Our new Australian friends offered us a drink of whiskey and pepsi. We shared a wonderful dinner as the stars came out. The camp was lit by candle lamps. Dinner was delicious. Rice with a warm tomato and pepper sauce. A big tangine of meat and vegetables topped with sunny side up eggs. Luscious melon to finish the meal.


Our hosts played some music (and let us try their drums too). But our thoughts were firmly fixed on the heavens above. The moon-less desert sky was crammed with stars. A stunning reminder of our location. The Milky Way arched brilliantly across the sky. Jupiter began to rise on the eastern horizon. The Big Dipper reminded us that no matter where our adventures take us (in the northern hemisphere at least) we are all staring at the same sky. A satellite slowly passed high above. Several meteorites whizzed across the sky…brilliant fireworks to end the evening. Just before bed, we spotted Orion rising in the east.


We fell into our beds. Not a sound to be heard. We will sleep well.

Filled with optimism that good things come from perseverance, we re-packed our bags, re-nourished our bodies with a final breakfast at the Palais Amani, and said hello to Youssef…our driver and guide for the next four days. Our destination lay some 500+ kilometers away on the edge of the desert.


In spite of a sniffly cold, Youssef was charming and eager to help turn our drive into a lesson about the wonders of his country. (Youssef works for a tiny family-run tour company called Ligne d’Aventure Maroc.)


We quickly left the medina and its medieval chaos behind for the natural beauty of the countryside.


In short order, the low fields of olives and almonds surrounding Fès transitioned to rocky plains and green(er) fields of the foothills. Clearly a lot more water up here. Apple trees line the roads.


Stopped in Ifrain, with its clear French influence. Buildings have Alpine chalet design with pitched roofs (as opposed to the typical Moroccan building, which is flat-roofed with a terrace on top.) This area is popular in the winter for its skiing and summer for its more moderate temperatures. Manicured public squares, fountains, and quiet pedestrian traffic stood in sharp contrast with Fes.


Continuing on, the trees turned to cedar and cork. Beautiful vistas of rolling livestock-trimmed green grass broken up by patches of rich orange-brown soil.


Drove thru a national park of tall cedars. Stopped in a grove popular with small, pink-faced monkeys. These guys were adorable, and they knew it. Youssef bought us a bag of tiny pears to feed the monkeys. Sometimes it felt that they were hiding their pears in one hand and extending the empty hand with a face that said “Oh me? I haven’t gotten one yet. I let my friends go first, of course.” But who could resist those adorable mugs. Nearby, children led decked-out donkeys up to us offering rides for a fee: “No merci.” (I don’t know how to say, “Are you nuts?”). Winding up through the forest, we passed the silvery bare trunk of an 850 year-old cedar.


Exiting the forest, we came to the rocky plains between the mid-Atlas and high-Atlas mountain ranges. Sheep, donkeys, and the occasional cow fed on the low grass. Our ears popped from the dramatic shift in altitude from Fes, far behind and below. Make-shift dams created wide pools in shallow streams for washing clothes. Tiny wood and clay huts dotted the valleys between rolling foothills. Occasionally a small tent served as a house.


We stopped for a brief lunch at one of the hotels along the highway that catered to tour groups…the Hotel Taddart. A simple buffet allowed us to nibble on salads and couscous and various meats. A couple of Moroccan beers washed it all down.


Rain clouds turned to downpours as we headed for a pass in the High Atlas. We followed the Ziz River as it carved its way through the mountains, eventually winding our way down from the mountains through the Ziz Valley. Stepped brown and orange ridges on either side of us. The twisting rocky river bed was lined with date palm trees and lush grasses.


The sun returned, as the clouds left their droplets in the mountains behind us (mostly). We made our way towards Merzouga, following a low, lush oasis crowded with date Palm trees. Hundreds of mud-walled houses hugged the edges of the oasis.


Temperatures rose steadily as we neared the desert…near 30 degrees Celsius versus 17’C as we crossed the Atlas. The sun set quickly, and the blue dusk was very brief. We spent the final hour of our drive in darkness, which is an interesting time along rural Moroccan roads. Darkness doesn’t slow down pedestrians, donkeys, carts, or bikes…none of which are lit until headlights cross them suddenly. And yet, Youssef never missed a beat and adeptly wove around all obstacles with barely a courteous tap on the horn.


We arrived at our hotel for the night…the Nomad Palace…a two story mud-walled structure with a generous courtyard. Our room was spacious and comfortably appointed. Certainly a far cry from the Palais Amani, but the desert charm of this place is definitely inviting. A group of local Berber performers drummed, chanted, and danced in the courtyard before dinner…and then led guests into the dining room.


Dinner was hearty and filling. Authentic enough for our tastes. A hearty vegetable noodle soup. A beef and vegetable tangine. Bread and fruit. A couple of sweet coffees made the perfect end to the meal. A friendly cat meowed quietly for scraps…which of course we couldn’t resist sharing.


After dinner, we sat outside to enjoy the warm desert breeze. Bats whizzed by our ears, snacking on desert moths and other morsels. The local musicians continued to entertain inside, but the throbbing drumbeat and rhythmic chants filled the courtyard.