Tag / Dubrovnik

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rose with the 7:30 bells from the Franciscan Monastery. Time to repack for our quick flight today…a trial run for our trip home tomorrow. We had another energizing breakfast at Cele. We found a shaded corner table and sipped café Americanos. Jeff’s omelette was even better than yesterday. My ham and cheese crepe was warm with a pleasantly surprising dollop of sour cream inside.
 
With a bit of time to kill before our departure, we took in one last ‘tapas’ museum. Today the Sponza palace. The Venetian-style building was the true highlight, but the collection of old photos of the Dalmatian coast and a B&W reel of old Dubrovnik was also interesting. The building houses the State Archives for the Dubrovnik Republic, and the current exhibit highlight the best of the restored replicas for viewing. The originals were wisely kept in micro-climates storage in the rooms above…too fragile to allow out. The other exhibit showcased the many fortified castles littered over Bosnia Herzegovina…Mostar was the only we actually visited.
 
Passing thru our little neighbor shop at the foot of the stairs of our apartment, we could resist ‘buying’ (leaving money and a note since the artists hadn’t arrived for the day) a watercolor landscape of the Dubrovnik wall and harbor skyline. After packing up remaining items, we wheeled our luggage the short distance to a well-placed taxi stand just outside the Pile Gate. The taxi ride afforded spectacular views of the old city and coast from the high-winding, modern route to the airport as we said our goodbyes to the Dalmatian Coast.
 
The Dubrovnik airport was small and efficient…although our flight was delayed awaiting the inbound aircraft. Thank goodness Croatia Airlines is a Star Alliance partner…we were able to check our expanding collection of books and other souvenirs without charge. This is why we bring an extra duffle bag 🙂 Nearby, the check-in for BA to London was jam packed. Austrian Air to Vienna had quite a line too.
 
Approximately two hours late we lifted off the windy runway in our tiny Bombardier prop plane. We followed the coast for a bit over Dubrovnik and then tiny dotted islands, before turning inland over Bosnia. (No fake speeding tickets up here!!) We approached Zagreb over green patch-worked fields and forests. A wide river wound through the countryside.
 
Our bags arrived promptly and we were soon in a cab zipping into the center of Zagreb. Like most European cities, the airports are at least 30-45 min from their main city center. Our final hotel of the trip was the jewel of Zagreb…the luxurious Esplanade. Oddly, even though this is our most highly rated hotel of the trip, it is one of the best prices. Good to remember!
 
Since we arrived later than we had hoped, we set out quickly to explore the historic center of the city. We traced a route along parks filled with slowly walking couples and sun-dappled fountains. Past the city’s core museum district. On to the Cathedral, gleaming in the afternoon sun. Two soaring towers, one covered in healing scaffolding, one restored and proclaiming to the world. We entered the cathedral during a service, so we could explore, but the cathedral was impressive. It stands up with the other big gothic cathedrals in Europe.
 
We wandered the charming pedestrian streets of the old town. Stopped into comfy Caffe History Club for beers and some paprika chips. Yum! We returned to this same street for dinner. Žuja Je Zakon served up a fantastic platter of grilled meats. Wonderful sourdough-like bread. The rain started at the tail end of dinner (along with a noticeable 15 degree temperature drop), so we darted across the street to History again. Heat lamps and beer fends off rain and chill nicely.
 
The rain slowed to a light drizzle. The cathedral bells tolled midnight. Time to sleep.

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vernight downpours relented, and we awoke to warm sun. Ventured out a bit for breakfast…Cele Brunch and Bar. Sure, the perch right on the Stradun probably adds a few dollars, but the entertaining view of passers-by is worth every penny. Visitors here run the gamut from beach-bound college students to bus-tour seniors. Strong café americanos with warm milk. Jeff’s omelette was jammed full of ham, cheese, onions, and mushrooms. Church bells rang out at 11:30…time to get the rest of the day going.

We spent some time talking with Anamarija, the charming Croatian ceramic sculptor with a gallery in the apartment entryway. She shares this cozy space with a painter. Anamarija delighted in describing her work, her methods, and her motivation. She laughed as she told a lengthy story about how she crafted rough display boxes from old window frames. She also delved into the ups and downs of cruise ships, and a bit of local politics (today was a mayoral election).

A nibble of “religious tapas” for our morning walk. The lone Orthodox Church in the city, with a traditional gilded, painted iconostasis altar screen. Colorful icons adorned the simple interior. Tall, thin candles for offerings stuck in sand. Next door, the church’s icon museum…although the museums entire holdings were on the road in another country…but their gift shop had miniature replicas for purchase.

On the other side of the Stradun was the tucked-away synagogue museum. The second-floor held displays of manuscripts and robes. Upstairs, the synagogue–the second oldest in Europe?–had blue ceilings, carved wooden altars and furniture, and several metal lanterns of various shapes and sizes.

We took a long afternoon walk out the southern gate of the city along the coast. Five-star resorts hugged the hills. Sea kayakers dipped in and out of craggy coves below. Dubrovnik sat glowing on the horizon, an inviting reminder of our return. Passed a Islamic-inspired garden and building that spilled down the hill towards the sea…villa?…resort?…not sure, but beautiful with it’s turquoise dome shimmering in the sun and easily picked out amongst the white stone and orange terra-cotta buildings on the coast. As we were about to turn around, we happened upon a rocky beach at the bottom of some non-descript concrete stairs. A tucked-away restaurant with a covered terrace and a half-dozen tables served us freshly grilled meat and beer. A feral cat charmed us out of some morsels. Lady Gaga greeted us with Alejandro. But soon we hit the Jose Feliziano portion of the mix tape with Feliz Navidad and Little Town of Bethlehem. It wasn’t THAT chilly last night. 🙂

The sun beat down hard on our return walk. Two kittens distracted us with their playful wrestling. (How would Dobie feel about THESE two tiny souvenirs?) We stopped into eastwest for a cool drink and a shady respite. The lounge music blended with the light surf just outside. Sunbathers caught the last rays of the day.

Continued our seaside pub crawl with a return to Buža. Dozens of chirping swallows were having a field day swooping and diving around the cliffs and walls, scooping up invisible (to us) sunset insects.

For dinner, we returned to another favorite: Kapon, on the serene square I front of the towering Jesuit church. Tonight, the weather was just perfect. An acoustic guitarist played quiet tunes that echoed across the entire square. Another local wine, this one a syrah…fantastic. Shared a pesto spaghetti with goat cheese and almonds. Jeff had a wonderful rolled chicken with prosciutto and cheese and a savory mushroom sauce. I risked another beef dish and felt rewarded: tender rare-ish beef with shrimp and a truffle sauce.

After dinner we wandered and soaked it all in. A bite of gelato. Another beer to listen to music. Spotted stars outside the gate in the old harbor.

We must come back to Dubrovnik. What a perfect day.

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he battle of blue sky versus clouds resolved in our favor as we sipped morning cappuccinos. We started the day with the Rector’s Palace museum. Jeff calls these “tapas museums”, because they are small and tantalizing, and you can sample a few of them in a meal. The main floor highlights period portraits and furnishings. A fascinating collection of “sedan chairs”…those wood-and-glass, single-occupant transports that are hand-carried through streets. Varieties of silver oil lamps. Downstairs is a glimpse of prison cells. Two green-patina statues…bell ringers from the town clock. A series of B&W photos from the recent war lined the walls of another set of stone-walled rooms. The images stand in stark contrast with the same streets–fully restored and full of tourists–just through the walls.

Next the Maritime Museum…included in the same multi-museum admission. Although the intricate wooden models and ship artifacts were interesting, the highlight was the stone fort that housed the museum and the booming crash of the surf against the thick walls…a reminder of Dubrovnik’s relationship with the moody Adriatic.

Found an umbrella-shaded seat on the terraced rocky cliffs at Buža…the must-go bar outside the walls on the rocks overlooking the Adriatic. Two Ožujskos as we watched the heavy surf pound the rocks below. Salty spray scented the warm breeze. White sea foam added lacy fringe to the spectacular blue sea. Sinatra belted “That’s Life” on the speakers. As we finished our second round, Tony Bennett crooned “I Left My Heart in San Francisco”. Perfect.

A final museum for the day…the tiny Ethnographic museum housed in a four-story former grainery. Not really a subject that piqued our interest, but the building was interesting with it’s dozen-or-so deep stone grain silos in the ground. An photo exhibit on all types of bicycle transit in Copenhagen seemed out of place.

We grabbed a gelato (no competition for creamy gelato in Venice) to fuel our big later afternoon activity: The Wall. A rather pricey site (around $15 each), but the number one must-do activity in Dubrovnik. The walled fortification of the city provides an uninterrupted walk along the entire perimeter of the city.

We thought afternoon would provide us the best light across the city, and we weren’t disappointed. To keep the usual throngs orderly, the wall walk runs counter-clockwise. We decided to start above the Maritime Museum…definitely the less crowded part of the wall.

What a wonderful, different perspective on the city. You can really pick up on the undulating terrain of the city as the wall climbs steeply only to dip down again…it’s a stoney roller coaster. Towers and strategic fortresses dot the perimeter. Monastery cloisters, rooftop terraces, and hidden vegetable gardens are exposed from above. Along the sea-side wall, the glistening Adriatic spread out in front of us. Surf pounded the fortification as it has for centuries.

In all, the walk took us around two hours. You could definitely do it faster, but we strolled and stopped often. The crowds were (thankfully) very light today. We got a nice mix of sun and clouds, which enhanced the lighting for our views.

With only two nights left in Dubrovnik, we planned a return to a favorite for dinner…well…MY favorite. We had a nice Pošip white wine from Korčula. I had my wonderful truffle steak from the other night…still wonderful (and probably the best beef dish I’ve ever had in Europe). Jeff had a fish that stared back at him…a filet full of bones…go figure. Dessert was gelato (a tad bit better than earlier) on the Stradun.

Later drinks at Sky Bar. Unexpected fireworks lit up the sky from the old harbor at midnight. Real fireworks (aka thunder and lightening) lit up the sky as we walked back to the apartment.

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reakfast was windy but not rainy, so we ate outside on the Stradun. A chocolate brioche added a bit of sweet to our savory egg dishes. A steel drum performer played the same dozen notes over and over and over…

First sightseeing for the day…ducked into the Franciscan Monastery off the Stradun just inside the Pila gate. Paid our 30 kn per person and wandered the cloistered courtyard filled with grapefruit trees and a fountain. There is a comforting calm within the walls, with nary a sound from the hundreds of visitors mere feet away just outside. Frescos decorating the niches in the arches above. The area shows subtle signs of the damage wrought during the recent conflict. Most has been repaired, a few spots are maintained as subtle reminders of the ravages of war upon cultural treasures. The small museum attached showcased religious treasuries…vestments, reliquaries, bones of saints, and items from the ancient pharmacy run by the monks. The site also has a modern pharmacy serving the needs of the populous.

Climbed steep narrow steps toward the high corner tower that anchors the top-left corner of the city. Every step decreased the number of visitors dramatically…and at the top, only a few spry walkers who had broken free of their tour groups far below.

We happened upon a hidden archeological site, through a tiny door, across a stark-white modern basketball courtyard, and down some narrow metal steps. We were greeted by an eager archeology graduate who beamed with happiness when we expressed interest in his museum site rather than being lost looking for the entrance to the city walls. For our paltry 30 kuna each, he took us on a personal tour of the site…a foundry dating to the 15th century. Stone basins for melting metal. Molds for cannon balls and church bells. An offshoot of the city aqueduct with pools to separate out heavy deposits. Pottery from the earthquake that destroyed the foundry (and most of the city) highlighted trading relationships with Moorish Spain, Venice, and the Ottomans. The museum was small, but brand new and very well done. Well worth a quick stop out of the sun.

Continuing along the outer wall, we happened upon tiny Lady Pi Pi–an intimate restaurant with a serene grape vibe-covered terrace. A shocking fountain statue grabs the attention of passers by. We both ordered ćevapi…hearty portions of the succulent meat, freshly grilled…charred grilled vegetables and French fries in the side. A light breeze and a view of the city below. A cruise ship sailed by, momentarily dwarfing the fortified city…a reminder that rowdy marauders awaited us down the hill!

Continuing around the inside of the outer wall. Popped our heads through the northern gate (the Buža gate). Continued on to the Dominican Monastery, similar in structure to the Franciscan counterpart from earlier. The quiet cloister grew oranges versus grapefruit. The adjacent church showed recent stained glass and paintings to replace those lost during the war. Stopped in the courtyard under an orange tree to blog a bit.

4:38…what better time for cocktails on the beach. Just outside the Ploče gate is the eastwest banje beach club. The lounge pulsed with club music. A fresh breeze swept up off the cool blue water. A fantastic (and yes…pricey) mojito with a slice of kiwi to add a twist. A “yellow bird” with rum mixed with tropical flavors of banana, orange, and pineapple. Pink early-season bodies sat on white lounge chairs or just on the rocky beach. A few souls waded in to feel the chilly salt water on their skin.

Crossing the old town a bit, we visited the Jesuit Church sitting hi-atop the rise toward the sea. The towering altar was richly painted with colorful murals. A craggy grotto at the rear of the chapel was crammed with little statues and decorations.

As we ventured out after changing for dinner, a light rain started. This turned walkers into sitters and made scoping out a dinner spot more tricky. We decided to try a cozy restaurant–Kopun–on the gravely square in front of the Jesuit Church. Huge umbrellas cast a protective shield over tables. We grabbed the last “dry” table, which had a prime view of the church. This view came with a price, as occasional gusts of wind sent a light spray over the edge of the table. But the experience was exhilarating…particularly when distant lightening lit up the sky. We had yet another fantastic Croatian red wine, this one a hearty blend of some type. Jeff ordered skewers of monk fish and bacon cooked in a luscious wine sauce. I tried a Croatian staple of capon (a castrated rooster) cooked with a flavorful mushroom sauce. For dessert a surprising house desert…some variant of flan with tangy orange peel. Also a warm apple strudel…
yummy. Torrential rain came as we finished dessert…so we ordered cappuccinos and rode it out.

Sporadic light rain as we walked wet streets. We ducked into a bar for a beer. In spite of the rain, a healthy Friday night crowd was out and about.

Here’s to another really fantastic day, full of unexpected adventures.

Woke to grey skies and a calming feeling that we didn’t need to drive anywhere today…or tomorrow…or beyond. Loved the driving…now looking forward to the walking 🙂

As a storm brewed, we ate a satisfying breakfast of eggs and ham and cappuccinos at Cafe Festival, mere steps from our apartment. Strong winds preceded a sudden downpour. Umbrellas sprouted like colorful flowers. Less prepared tour groups sought cover under flapping canopies. Perhaps one more slowly-sipped cappuccino is in order! The rain passed quickly and life returned to normal.

In no time, the skies were crystal blue and white puffy clouds added visual decoration. We took a counter-clockwise route around the old town, hugging near the outer wall. Narrow streets. Steep staircases. Thick walls keeping the sea (and invaders) at bay. In a couple of places, you can pop through the walls onto the rocky coast. Tiered seating areas spill down to the strong Adriatic. Sun lovers braved chilly (but warming) breezes and sipped cocktails. The occasional surge sent sprays of water up into viewers who erupted into surprise and laughter. Feral cats found sunny nooks to nap. We ducked in out of the sun to the 300 year old cathedral. Simple decoration focused attention on ornate marble side-chapels.

For lunch a simple but satisfying pizza capriciosa from Mea Culpa. Pleasant outdoor seating in shorts. Light breezes tingled the skin.

Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering. As the afternoon light turned golden, we headed through the Pile Gate and up to an imposing defense on a nearby rock point. The Fort of St. Lawrence allowed us dramatic views back across the entire city, our first perspective on the true topology of this unexpected city. Dramatic clouds and the bright blue Adriatic added to the breathtaking scene.

Back inside the walls, we headed for the coastal side of the city to have a drink at one of the two cafes that operate on the craggy rocks below two tiny doors in the fortification. Two Karlovačko beers as the light dipped. Swallows swooped overhead. Two more beers. The Adriatic glistened near sunset. Catherine and Wesley joined us unexpectedly and shared a few stories about the day.

For dinner, we had reservations at the popular Taj Mahal restaurant…oddly named for a traditional Bosnian restaurant. We tried another sampler platter to compare with the platter we had in Mostar. The food here was excellent, with variations on traditional Bosnian fare. Once again the ćevapi stood out with us. We shared another tufahije for dessert. Drinks afterwards at Sky Bar…a rowdy Australian crowd drank bottom-shelf liquor in blue, plastic beach pails. Red Bull and cheap vodka in a bucket…the scene was exactly what you would expect from that combo! A spontaneous conga line formed, snaking thru the bar to our amusement.

Strolled quiet streets back to our apartment. Sleep was welcomed.