Tag / Bled

Awoke to light breezes, dappled sunlight, and an incessant cuckoo in the nearby forest. Although not as fancy as the Cubo breakfast, the Kapp breakfast still had hot eggs and crispy bacon…and cappuccinos….so no complaints here! Packing after one quick night was super easy, and we hit the road with helpful pointers from Peter (the owner).


Emily (with helpful tips from Rick Steves) plotted a winding route through the Julian Alps to our evening stay in Kobarid. But first a drive through the lush, grassy foothills to the north of Bled. The air was rich with wet-grass thanks to light morning showers.


Skirted the Austrian border until we came to Kranjska Gora, where we began our narrow winding path up into the mountains. Tight hairpin turns were cobbled to improve traction. Drizzle became indistinguishable from heavy fog collecting and dripping from the tall pines. Grey peaks laced with remnants of spring snow played peak-a-boo through moody mist.


Stopped briefly at a tiny wooden chapel–the Ruska Kapelica–built in 1917 by Russian POWs to commemorate their fallen comrades as they built this important World War I road through the Julian Alps. The chapel sat peacefully in a clearing in the pines, next to a snow-fed spring, with tiny bunches of white and yellow wildflowers. Another cuckoo in the distance. The air was sweet.


Continuing up, we passed the snow line, and finally the Vršič pass at 1611 meters. Eight degrees Celsius didn’t feel cold, the snow LOOKED cold.


The mountain-fueled rain picked up in earnest. Down we wound–a total of 50 hairpin turns up and down–passing old WWI-era tunnels, supply lines, and border checkpoints marking the Italy-Austria Hungary war time border. We learned that the Julian Alps are enclosed in Slovenia’s only national Park: Triglav.


We joined up with the Soča river as it wound down out of the snowy peaks above. It was crystal clear, tinted turquoise by the sediment it carried. We passed vehicles carrying adventurers and their kayaks…ignoring the rain in favor of a colder kind of wet in the river. A striking waterfall–the second highest in Slovenia–caught our eye off to the right. The falls were full and brilliant. Further down, we stopped in the white-water base of Bovec. The rain let up, and we celebrated with warm pizzas: mine with a super-spicy salami; Jeff’s with ham mushroom and an egg. They really hit the spot.


Dropping further down the Soča, we arrived in compact Kobarid and checked into the Hotel Hvala. Kobarid had a storied history and an award winning museum to show it. The Kobaraski Muzej was named European Museum of the Year in 1993 for it’s striking view of World War I through a simple presentation of photos and artifacts of war.


We opted for a light dinner with a Slovenian ravioli–Žlikrofi–accompanied by cool beers. The rain returned as we reached our hotel, building into an impressive thunderstorm. The rhythm of raindrops on rooftops brought on a pleasing drowsiness.

In defiance of the grogginess of a late night wandering, dodging rain drops, and blogging, we arose early, re-packed, and indulged in another hearty Cubo breakfast…mmmmm crispy bacon.


We pointed Emily to the lakeside town of Bled, and headed out under a brilliant blue sky. The outskirts of Ljubljana were rain-washed and colorful…every parklet a lush, over-grown green. A hop on the highway…130 kph…a few impressive tunnels to save some time, and whooosh…45 minutes to Bled.


Bled is a cute, one-stoplight town at one end of a beautiful alpine lake. Checked into the Penzion Kaps, a small, two-story hotel with that stereotypical alpine-looking blonde-wood siding. The owner greeted us with enthusiasm and oriented us to our afternoon activities.


We grabbed a spot on a boat heading across the lake to Bled’s signature attraction: the tiny mid-lake island topped by a steepled church. It’s right out of a storybook, and worth every penny. The ride across was choppy, but provided views of the towns castle (more on that), the surrounding green hills and snow-laced mountains, and the former home of Yugoslavian uniter and favorite communist leader…Tito.


Our visit to the island was brief–limited to 30 min–but the Church was charming. It’s grand staircase was lit up and dramatic, and we got to ring the church bell!! Apparently ringing the bell brings good luck. We both rung it several times. A strong effort is needed, and one poor older women taking her turn was nearly dragged across the floor riding the much heavier bell than her small frame. We decided it would make a great new fitness craze…who needs P90X.


New Emily guided us to our next destination…Bled Castle. After paying our 8€, we walked onto to the lower terrace to be faced with an incredible view of the Bled Lake valley below. Sheer rock cliffs drop away dramatically leaving a wide open panorama of the mountains and lake below. After snapping our fill of photos, we ducked into the Museum. Though modern and labeled in English, the exhibit of artifacts was a little underwhelming, so we ventured back out to enjoy the real delight of this site…the view. Since the clouds and light were changing dramatically with a strong wind, we snapped another round of pictures. At least one should turn out well…right? Being in no rush to leave, we settled into a cozy pair of seats on the terrace with stunning views to enjoy an afternoon refreshment…two Laško beers. Finishing up, we took one last stroll around the grounds to partake the views and headed back to our Alpine abode.


To wrap up the day before dinner, we took the 6km walk around the perimeter of the lake. What a beautiful, beautiful lake from every angle. Nesting swans on low nests of gray twigs. A momma duck guided her fuzzy brown and black ducklings as the played in the current of a stream. Crew teams practiced at the Olympic rowing center. And the views of the church and the castle just got better as the sun sank.


Dinner was at nearby Restaurant Mayer. Asparagus is in season, with it’s own special menu. Jeff tried the asparagus with turkey cutlets. I opted for pork medallions with mushrooms.


Winding down with the soothing scent of cool mountain air, we were startled by a sudden explosion…that turned out to be fireworks over the lake…each whistle and crackle and boom reverberating across the valley…building layers of echoes until the shows bombastic crescendo.


Back to complete silence.