Tag / Barcelona

I was excited to continue my exploration of nighttime movement, first in Barcelona (above) and then again in Marrakech (below).

Our taxi arrived early, as we said our goodbyes to our apartment. Certainly sad to depart Barcelona, but we have found a city to which we are certain to return. Yet another reminder that Spain is a very special place.


Back to the BCN airport, for a very quick check-in with Iberia and an efficient security check. Even during a busy weekday morning, the airport feels peaceful and quiet…the result of a modern, cavernous design that dampens almost all sound.


A short flight to Madrid. Our 20min connection between terminals in Madrid felt longer than the flight 🙂 With a stamp in our passport at Passport Control, we entered terminal T4S, with its wavy ceiling reminiscent of some of the Gaudí buildings we visiting over the past few days.


IB3702 from Madrid to Casablanca. A notable increase in French-speaking passengers provided an audible transition to the next leg of our adventure…Morocco.


Welcome to Africa. A first for both of us. Our start in Morocco wasn’t without its stresses, but we handled the challenges with the spirits of adventurers. Long passport lines. Slow luggage. An efficient but not user friendly train station.


Boarded our first train from Casablanca Airport to Casa Voyaguer, the main connection for high speed trains to the rest of Morocco. I’m going to suggest that the temperature in the car was only a few degrees lower than the temp required to make a nice brisket. A very nice woman confirmed when we arrived at Casa Voyaguer, since there were no announcements, no attendants, and no prominent signage in the station.


Transitioned to our next train, with high speed service to Fes. We chose a first class seat so that we could get non-smoking and air conditioning, but before you get an image in your head of a luxurious ride, let me mention that first class doesn’t come with soap in the bathroom…not to mention staring at the tracks thru the toilet.


Two VERY VERY kind young women helped us call our riad with our arrival time. For some reason, we could call out of Morocco but not within Morocco. Merci to these two patient locals.


As the train wound its way northeast-ish from Casablanca, we watched the sun dip lower over the Atlantic Ocean. Lots of sheep. Groups of people walking down dusty paths that seems to start nowhere and lead nowhere. A white haired man sitting in a dusty field next to a black cow. Rows of tin-and-wood huts dotted with satellite dishes on roofs that could collapse under their own weight. Bumper cars at river-side fair.


Our train stopped for a bit in a forest of low eucalyptus trees. I was expecting a band of marauders. We learned later from the taxi driver that our train had hit a donkey. Poor donkey. But I’m glad it wasn’t marauders!


We passed through Rabat, which was aglow in the setting sun like a scene from a post card. Old towers hilltops. Golden sand-colored city walls.


The sun set before we hit Mekenes. We sped through the darkened countryside to Fes.


The train station in Fes was the first sign of good things to come. It was a small but beautiful station, with tradition ceramic tiles from floor to ceiling. The taxi from our riad was waiting as promised. A friendly young man, who gave us useful information as we made our way from the Ville Nouvelle into the historic Medina…about a 15 minute ride.


A short walk from one of the car parks up a couple of narrow lanes and we were at the unassuming doors of our riad…the serene Palais Amani. Upon entering, we were transported to another world. By definition, the riads are historic homes with interior courtyard gardens. Colorful tile was everywhere. The only sound was the light splash of the garden fountain.


We were greeted by our cheerful hostess, who gave us an orientation to the hotel and the area while we sipped warm mint tea…heaven in a cup.


After a quick freshening from the day, we had a fantastic Moroccan dinner in the garden. A very private affair, there were only four tables. Truly a wonderful way to relax after a long stressful day of travel and grime. We ordered a wonderful Moroccan rosé…perfectly chilled and perfectly subtle. All of our dishes highlighted subtle spices. A simple puff pastry with beef. A layered veggie dish with eggplant and tomato topped with puff pastry. A hearty-yet-subtle entree of beef with two preparations of quince. And a divine lemon mousse with a sweet quince drizzle for dessert.


Afterwards, we enjoyed a local beer (Spéciale) on the rooftop terrace. The Medina is quite silent at night. Only the sound of a dog barking on a nearby hill.


A long day. Full of new adventures. But we survived and have grand stories awaiting us for the next 11 day in Morocco.

Cupcakes for breakfast? Frankly, it would be a crime for them to go to waste! Bill Cosby would approve.


Sugar coursing through our veins, we launched into our last day in Barcelona with a Metro ride out to Park Güell, a public park designed by Gaudí. The park is on a hill, so fortunately, Jeff found a side-door entrance that starts at the top of the park…and is reached by escalators. THAT is a smart move after a sweaty Metro ride. (The trick was to exit at the Vallcarca stop versus the more popular Lesseps stop.)


The park has several Gaudí-designed features. Walkways, bridges, and underpasses designed with his flowing/dripping stone effect. Each underpass seemed to house a different musician: a harp, a steel drum, a guitar-violin trio. The tiny Gaudí house/museum was interesting but underwhelming. But all of those were just the warmup to his signature features: his undulating terrace with staircase and matching houses. These features were bright with while ceramic and glass broken tiles. Colorful patterns and accents all over the place. A tile mosaic lizard sat at the top of a tiered fountain that ran down the center of a winding staircase. And two gate houses at the main entrance to the park…the roofs windows and doors all outlined in broken tiles. Doctor Seuss would have been at home in one of these tiny buildings.


A long walk downhill to the Lesseps metro stop (again…bravo on the research Jeff!!) and a short metro ride and we were back at the Plaça Catalunia. We grabbed a quick bite at one our cozy cafes. Beer and croque messieurs sure do hit the spot after a long walk in the park. And Into the Born neighborhood to visit the Picasso Museum…on every guidebooks must-see list. Well, frankly, it was ok. Lots of Picasso, just not a lot of the stuff he is famous for…since those pieces are in the biggie museums or private collections around the world. But his early work is quite intriguing, and Jeff spotted a favorite of his: Science and Charity.


From the museum, we returned to the Santa Maria del Mar church in time to catch a tour of the bell towers and roof. An eager young man shared his passion for the church and its Catalan Gothic style. Clearly, this is a church of the people, and it is beloved in Barcelona. The rooftop views of Barcelona just before sunset were a nice touch! Oh, and we learned that to solve the problem of overheating in the church, they simply cut three-inch holes in the roof to let the heat escape. They only cover them in the winter. That’s certainly one way to solve that problem!


We had dinner in a nearby courtyard at the whimsical Cheese Me, which of course specialized in dishes that highlighted wonderful cheeses. We started with an amazing autumn salad with a basalmic dressing drizzled over greens and a warm goat cheese au gratin. Jeff had a chicken dish stuffed with cheese and other goodies, drizzled with nuts and a fruit jam. My dish was creative ham cheese mushroom empanadas. All washed down with a couple refreshing cervazas. We had not one but three guitarists sing their way thru the courtyard. Two were worthy of coins in the cap.


On out slow walk back to the apartment, we passed a dozen cool restaurants we want to try on our next visit. Apparently, El Born is the hip section of the medieval city. We saw all the major sights, but we know there is much more to experience…soon.


But all good stories have multiple chapters, so we returned to our apartment to pack and relax and get ready to move on tomorrow.

After having a pastry and coffee in our apartment, we set out towards the soaring Gaudì masterpiece, Sagrada Família. Our first Metro ride wisked us easily from Universitat to Sagrada Família station. Upon exiting the station, we were greeted with the end of a long line…which we soon discovered wrapped around three sides of the church. Not wanting to put off seeing this must-see site, we joined the other eager tourists and patiently waited for an hour and a half…finally gaining entrance and walking in the doors under the Ascension facade. We were immediately faced with the overwhelming genius of Gaudì. The interior is breathtaking with soaring vaults and numerous glass windows bathing the church in light. No dark gothic church here. Gaudì believed in providing light wherever possible. The main interior was only recently finished and consecrated by the Pope in 2010. It was begun in 1882, and has been under construction for 130 years. Presently, only 40% has been completed. Ambitiously, they project completion mid this century. When done, it will soar over many other famous landmark churches in Europe including St. Peters in Rome. Gaudì was deeply religious and intended this church to tell the story of the bible in stone. After marveling at the beauty around us, we ventured to the elevators at our allotted timeslot to ascend to the top of the first completed towers within Gaudì’s lifetime…those capping the Nativity facade. Gaudì intended this faced to show the birth and youth of Jesus, so it was designed to be hopeful and joyous.


As we stepped off the elevator, we understood why time slots were tightly enforced…only a narrow bridge connects the sets of towers. Snapping our fill of photos, we descended using the spiral stairs in the opposite tower from our ascent. As we wound down, we were greeted with small balconies that jutted out affording views of the fantastical stone working enveloping the building. Gaudì was a master at incorporating flora and fauna in his design…though everything has well thought meaning. Before his death (getting hit by municipal trolley ironically), most of the church had been planned in 3D plaster models. Though the civil war brought destruction to these plans, most were saved and pieced painstakingly back together. The project continues apace with fervent Gaudì followers carrying on his work and imbuing their own interpretations where necessary.


After reaching the bottom, we entered an exhibit explaining the symbolism and inspiration employed by Gaudì…trees with branches became columns…fruit became finials…palm
fronds became capitals…snakes and alligators became drain spouts.


Yet another exhibit in the crypt area described the history and ongoing work to bring this house of God into being. From the use of small sand bags attached to wire to get a sense of how soaring vaults will bear weight to modern CNC machines that rout out molds of new work, the story of this site is intriguing. The exhibit culminates with a view of Gaudì’s grave in the crypt under in the Carmine chapel.


Returning back to the church, we wandered again seeing new details and the changing light as the day started to wane and the sun beginning to dip low enough on the horizon to send shimmering beans of light across the floor and against soaring columns. It was definitely meant to be a monument that evolves thru the day with the Nativity side in the east and Ascension in the west. A quick trip would never do this architecture justice. Fortunately, we were in no rush, so we stayed until closing time was upon us. Exiting, we moved across the street for a late mid-day snack watching the golden rays of sunset move across the stone walls as the sun retreated upon the horizon.


With a magical day behind us, we walked back towards our apartment discussing the wonder of Gaudì. Without seeing the Sagrada, his full genius could never be appreciated. We look toward to returning again to see the progress towards completion…and God willing…the finished ensemble.

(Note that as I’m writing this entry tonight, Barcelona and Madrid are tied up 1-1 at the half in their annual rival match. Frankly, the city may descend into chaos with a goal on either side.


After a leisurely Sunday morning with pastries and some reading, we ventured off in the Raval. Random winding streets took us into a hidden courtyard. A small fountain in the center held several deep-green limes from the low trees lining the courtyard.


Hopped a 2€ funicular that lifted us halfway up the steep ridges of the Montjuïc park. Committed at that point, we dropped another 7€ on a sky tram (the Telefèric de Montjuïc), which swept us the rest of the way up the hill.


Perched on top of this strategic hill is the historic Castell del Montjuïc, a former military fortress, with successive rings of steep brick walls. The central fortress has a broad brick roof…very warm on a sunny afternoon! Spectacular 360-degree views of the city…including our first direct views of the Mediterranean and the expansive port of Barcelona. Counted at least four massive cruise ships in port. We grabbed a bottle of water and a crusty cheese sandwich from a lunch stand pumping out club tunes. A black cat wandered beneath the tables looking for a snack.


Our downhill trek was pleasant as we wove to connect shady paths. Stopped briefly at the whimsical Font Màgica, with Gaudí-esque pools spilling noisily one into the next. Continuing down, we zig-zagged through the lush gardens. Found a tucked away seated zip line and took a few rides. Fun…and unexpected to be sure. Finally made our way down the final paths and steps to the city below.


All that walking…definitely time for a beer at Ocaña. Very refreshing.


After a short rest in the apartment, we turned to the Raval for dinner. Hoards of football fans spilled out of bars everywhere, craning their necks to watch Tucked-away televisions. Cheers and some firecrackers as Barcelona scored to pull ahead 2-1.


Found a cozy plaça with a pizza place. Really wonderful thin, crispy pizzas. Jeff had a great one with cheese and bacon and a egg. Mine was a mild BBQ pizza with chicken. Finished off with a wonder, light tiramisu. Perfect meal to break up our tapas.


After dinner, we returned to Ocaña for a nightcap. Icy mojitos hit the spot on a pleasantly warm night. Popped into the Ocaña’s amazing nightclub in the historic basement of the building. Smooth soulful tunes with a funky beat filled brick arched ceilings.


By the way, Madrid tied it up. The game ended as a 2-2 draw. We never heard a peep from the fans. No torches or pitchforks that we have seen 🙂 Good night.