Sunday (Rovinj to Split)…

Departing Rovinj under dappled morning sun, we drove through the Istrian Peninsula with its fertile fields, rocky cliffs, and low mountains. A Sunday-morning calm kept road traffic light. Pigs rooted in the fresh mud. Fig trees enjoyed the dappled sun. Grapes and olives fought for field space.


Stopped for a walk and a view from the tiny town of Motovun, with it’s stone walls and picture-perfect church carefully perched on a pointy hill top. A short walk from parking down below–a wise crowd control method–took us through an old city gate into the old town. A quick walk around atop the city walls provided sweeping vistas of the surrounding forests and farmland. Perfect place to pick off attacking marauders…none today unless you count the bus tourists! Just inside the city wall, grey stones bordered orderly back-yard vegetable gardens. We visited the small, quiet church and had a quick cappuccino on the wall before returning to the car.


Leaving the Istrian peninsula, we began an arched drive south along the mountainous spine of Croatia. Mountains and valleys were covered with tall thick forests. The road was modern and fast, cutting through the mountains with frequent tunnels. We passed through the three longest tunnels in Croatia…all over 5000 meters. The longest (Mala Kapela) was an impressive 5821 meters (3.6 miles). In the south, as we reached some high plains, the coastal mountains rose dramatically to the right, snow still clinging to craggy peaks. The mountains whipped up periodic cold showers.


Through one last mountain tunnel, we began our decent to the coast. Crossed an impressive fiord cutting it’s way up into the country. Low trees and brush returned. We entered Split on a narrow winding road. Following signs for the Center/Ferries we arrived at a parking lot on the large promenade near our apartment. There we met Zana, who walked us cheerfully to our home for the next few days…a cozy studio with sunny windows overlooking the dramatic old town.


As sun faded, we walked the smooth, still-wet stones of Diocletian’s Palace, the massive home of this Roman emperor around 305 A.D. Over time, the city and real life sprung up inside the walls of the complex. So today, you walk the narrow streets of the city, with temples and walls and arches from the palace at every turn. It is the ultimate and coolest example of re-use. It will be fun to explore tomorrow in daylight.


Dinner was a cozy spot (Redono d.o.o.) on a random street in the Palace. Huge glass walls provided views of the old building outdoors. A light, satisfying local red wine set a calm mood. Sea bass and John Dory were served on succulent pasta. A simple flan hit the spot.


We wandered the narrow streets briskly…the temperatures dropped to noticeably cold under clear skies. To warm, we ducked into eclectic Ghetto for late mojitos.