Monday (around Merzouga)…

An extra-firm mattress couldn’t stop us from counting many, many sheep…or perhaps donkeys? We awoke refreshed, enjoyed a hot shower, and dined on a simple buffet breakfast. Coffee, breads with fruit spreads, honey-drizzled pastries.


Since we had arrived at the hotel in the pitch black of night, we truly had no sense of where we were. The strong morning light revealed a flat desert terrain around us with only a few tiny buildings out towards the horizons. Bright yellow-orange sand dunes sprung up nearby.


Today we traveled with Youssef’s gregarious cousin (also named Youssef…the operator of the tour company), who was driving a wonderfully charming Australian couple (Lynn and Greg) on a similar itinerary. Our two Land Cruisers, joined at the hip, set out to circle the portion of the desert we abutted.


First stop…a visit with the local Berber musicians from the night before. We sipped hot mint tea as they played traditional songs. They invited us to dance with them. We did.


Continuing on, we entered a clearly volcanic area. Black rock showed signs of lava flow. Orange desert sand was dusted in rocky ash from ancient volcanic activities. We stopped at an old mining area complete with now abandoned mud buildings. We skirted the closed border with Algeria on the horizon.


We visited with a nomadic woman and her son. Local guides help this woman by bringing visitors. She showed us warm generosity from meager means. We sat on rugs in her home…her simple tent. She prepared tea and offered us bread. Her young son (five-ish?) “drove” the guides’ trucks and lit up with sheer joy. A warm glimpse of a very different life from what we know.


Next stop was a typical well for water used by animals. The water table is quite high, and it was only 10ft deep. As we rounded the desert dunes, we passed a road rally. Trucks of various shapes sped by in the sand.


Returned to the hotel for lunch. A local “Berber pizza”…a large pocket of dough filled with spiced meats, onion, and tomato. It is buried on coals and covered with sand to bake. Truly wonderful and hearty.


About a half hour before sunset, we mounted camels for a trek to our desert stay for the night. Camels aren’t comfortable, but they surely are more sure-footed than we would be walking up and down sandy dunes. The dunes lit up as the sun sunk. Long shadows of us on our camels framed on the undulating, bright orange sands. The sun set in a magnificent glow beyond the dune peaks.


We arrived at our stay for the evening…a ring of Berber tents on the eastern edge of the sand dunes…perfect for sunrise views tomorrow. Inside the ring, carpets to keep out the chill and grit of the sand. Our new Australian friends offered us a drink of whiskey and pepsi. We shared a wonderful dinner as the stars came out. The camp was lit by candle lamps. Dinner was delicious. Rice with a warm tomato and pepper sauce. A big tangine of meat and vegetables topped with sunny side up eggs. Luscious melon to finish the meal.


Our hosts played some music (and let us try their drums too). But our thoughts were firmly fixed on the heavens above. The moon-less desert sky was crammed with stars. A stunning reminder of our location. The Milky Way arched brilliantly across the sky. Jupiter began to rise on the eastern horizon. The Big Dipper reminded us that no matter where our adventures take us (in the northern hemisphere at least) we are all staring at the same sky. A satellite slowly passed high above. Several meteorites whizzed across the sky…brilliant fireworks to end the evening. Just before bed, we spotted Orion rising in the east.


We fell into our beds. Not a sound to be heard. We will sleep well.