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Awoke to a white noise of street sounds on the old cobbled streets below our room: Vespas and small trucks transporting locals and their delieveries; pedestrians in search of capuccini; a rollie bag coming or going; a swarm of swallows feasting above.

Off into the Tuscan hills today. First stop was hilly Volterra…famous for its alabaster. Parking was scarce (but free), so we ended up at a dusty lot down the hill a bit. Turns out our lot was near an old town fountain and one of the old city gates. Steep stairway to start our visit. 80 degree temps and sun. A rooster was crowing along the city wall.

In spite of it's must-see status, Volterra was a bit on the unimpressive side…but we made the most of it. The ancient Roman theatre and an ancient Etruscan site were the towns crown jewels. The imposing fortress was so…imposing…it was made into a prison…so it is off limits including signs to not photograph it! We did anyway. Its a fortress. A Palazzo, a variety of churches, and alabaster shops rounded out the visit. Lunch was pizza on a breezy terrace looking out over Tuscany below.

Drove to Impruneta via San Gimignano…famous for its tower-filled skyline. We had been in SG before with Cheryl and Curt, so we didn't stop on this visit, but the vista as we passed around the town. Wound our way back to Impruneta to find the elusive terra cotta products the town is known. Still nothing open in the sleepy city center, but we found success on the way out of town. An artisan terra cotta maker with an enormous array. Found a terra cotta lion head we liked.

Returned to Siena for dinner. Discovered that on Monday night…lots closed. Tried to eat at Osteria Nonna Gina (thanks for the recommendation, Sarah)…but it was closed 🙁 Tried another favorite…also closed. Took a chance at an outdoor spot on the Piazza del Mercato: Cafe Finistra. Jeff had dishes he raved about (ravioli al ragu, chicken with rosemary, and Tuscan beans 'faigoli bianche'). Unfortunately, I had to eat lite due to the onset of something icky. Either food poinoning or a 24-hour virus. A cold shower followed by restless sleep. I will live 🙂

Met a couple from Greensboro, North Carolina (two NC duos in our short stay) over our final breakfast at the Badia B&B. Packed and said our goodbyes to our fine hosts Bruno and Frank. A short walk through quiet Sunday-morning streets to pick up our car from Avis. Royal blue diesel Kia Cee'd…not at all sure what this car is named for.

Emily got a new memory card and is now "aware" of Italy. She did a great job guiding us thru the many winding roads and confusing signage. We reprogrammed her voice to Italian for kicks…much better than her British pronunciations of Italian roads.

The weather was beautiful for our drive south into Chianti. Stayed clear of the autostatas and twisted through the countryside. Stopped for a quick walk in tiny Inprutetta… famous around the world for its terra cotta creations…but not on Sunday. Not a single shop open.

Moved on to the town of Greve in the heart of the Chianti wine region. Still very sedated, but enough people for restaurants to be open in the central square. Ate on the square…pastas that hit the spot. Jeff had a celebratory glass of Chianti.

Emily's alter ego Patrizia guided us south past vineyards and olive trees. Long wide valleys…lush green dotted with red poppies in every nook. Hilltops capped by old towns. Swung around Siena and arrived via a southern entry…the Porta Tufi. Parked at one of the large city garages that sit at the old walled city edges.

Walked the last 15min to our little B&B…the cozy Palazzo Masi situated right in the heart of medieval Siena. Greeted by grinning Daniela and her husband, who wlecomed us back for our second visit.

At 7pm, Daniela directed us to a special treat, a colorful celebration in advance of the city's signature festival…the Palio in July. Today, the city announced which of the city's neighborhoods would compete in the Palio. At the Campo, last year's victors marched in with drums and flags and uniforms of green and red…their neighborhood colors. Brass trumpeters played from above, and neighborhood flags were hung in a ritual we only vaguely followed. Rival neighborhoods chanted and sang. A lucky glimpse of Siena's rich history.

Dinner at our favorite Sienese restaurant…Trattoria Papei…which seems to draw locals and visitors alike. Tuscan fare is very meat-centric (yay for me 🙂 Jeff's spaghetti al ragu di carne and my wide noodles with wild boar were both amazing. Our main dishes were equally flavorful: a rich chicken cacciatore and a tender beef fillet. (Mom…you would have loved the beef…VERY rare in the middle.) Finished the meal with capuccini and a decadent lemon cream torte topped with almonds and powdered sugar…YUM!

A long after-dinner walk up to the Duomo…our favorite church in Italy. Winding streets. Unexpected whimsical fountains.

As I write this entry with weary eyes, we can still hear the revelry on the Campo.

The Tuscan sun shined brightly this morning, when we ventured out after breakfast. Began our day at the 14th-century Basilica of San Lorenzo. Although lacking a finished facade, the church's interior is bright and full of famous treasures commissioned by the ruling Medicis. Brunelleschi, Donatello, and Michelangelo contributed. Also visited the quiet adjoining cloister.

The nearby streets were lined with the leather and garment stands leading to the Central Market. Il Mercato Centrale is full of food stands of all types: meats, seafood, cheeses, pastas, and produce. The "mystery meats" tested our fortitude…huge folded piles of tripe, stacked cow hooves, and pale pig snouts. Yum!

The image of the snouts faded and we grabbed lunch at Trattoria Anita. Spaghetti ragu, tagliatelle with porchini mushroom, and a creamy asparagus-topped chicken.

Dessert across the Ponte Vecchio at our (current) favorite gelateria…Santa Trinita. Visited the Chisea di Santa Maria del Carmine, with its famous Branacci Chapel. This frescoed chapel contains the iconic scene of Adam and Eve being cast from the Garden of Eden.

As the afternoon grew late, we headed through one of the old City walls, headed up a long, STEEP set of stairs, and arrived at the Chisea di San Miniato al Monte. A large beautiful church with almost no interior lighting…leaving the interior detials to be revealed slowly as eyes adjust to the darkness. An emerging scene of lovely frescoes, a painted beam ceiling, and gold-clad altars. At 5:30, the local monks begin to chant, filling the halls with a magical, soothing sound that surrounds you. Early evening views of city below. Returned with a short walk through a hillside rose garden full of amore. A peaceful stroll along the Arno.

Returned to Coquinarius for dinner. Fantastic Chianti and bruchetta to start. Two wondeful first courses: cheese and pear ravioli, gorganzola and bacon gnocci. Two hearty salads as our entrees. The only downside to dinner was watching the last two pieces of dreamy cheesecake go to another table while we sat and sat waiting for our waitress 🙁 We had revenge gelato from nearby Grano, famous for its artisan flavors…very good, but we enjoyed Santa Trinita better.

Too tired to go our, we strolled the city. Discovered a dual-guitar concerto echoing through the Piazza della Signora.

Awoke to a brilliant sunny day. Met a charming British couple over breakfast…the husband a stone mason in London with a unique appreciation for the amazing stonework in Florence.

To get ahead of the surge of midday tourists, began our day with a climb to the top of the Duomo's signature dome…the very first Renaissance dome. Scaled 463 steps to the summit of Brunelleschi's masterpiece. Winding staircase straight up the walls of the Duomo, then along the inside rim of the dome past amazing stained glass windows and fantastic frescoes, and finally up narrow, slanting staircases until you're actually walking on top of the interior walls. Popped up (finally) through a floor panel. Met by cool breezes in the face and sweeping panoramas of Florence and the surrounding hills. Passed crowds on the way down…we chose the right time.

Simple pizza for lunch, then off to walk the gardens south of the Arno. Our first visit to the Giardino Bardini…with numerous flower gardends, winding hillside walkways, and high views of the river and the historic center beyond. A simple 17th-century villa sat perched at the top. The Duomo was warmly lit in the distance.

Our entrance ticket allowed us to continue into the adjoining Boboli Gardens…the famous gardens behind the grand Pitti Palace. Entered the Bobili after a quick tour of Forte Belvedere, an imposing fortification on the hilltop. The fort's ramparts and "ratholes" reminded of our trip to Germany…we know Keegan would have enjoyed this part.

Wound our way through the Boboli Gardens…tree lined paths leading to garden rooms with flowers or statues or fountains. At the rose garden at the top of the Boboli, we drank water from one of several continuous drinking fountains…this one saved us from dehydration on our last visit, a.k.a., the death march. Watched a heron fish for its dinner. Returned to the Pitti Palace to visit two galleries: the Galleria del Costume (our first visit to these ornate state apartments) and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna.

Dinner after a shower and much-needed respite. In the mood for pasta, so we returned to Baldovino. Fresh caprese and warm focaccia rabie. Two fine pasta dishes: spaghetti alla carbonara and gnocci with asparagus and bacon. Friday night drinks nearby. In one bar, watched the final 15 minutes of an American Idol type show but with Italian opera hopefulls. The Friday night crowds were out in force, and bars were full by 11. Pleasant temps outside; very warm inside…curiously, saw three people with heavy scarves…inside!! Cool Italian beers kept us refreshed.

Cool temps and a soft pillow made for a restful night. The slight overnight rain was finishing up as we awoke. Had a light breakfast of cereal and pastries at the B&B communal table. Met fellow travelers from Southern California and North Carolina. Shared tales of "where from's" and "where to's".

First stop of the day was the Museo della Casa Fiorentina Antica. The historic home is being restored and transformed into a museum. For now, only two floors are open…but its free…no complaints 🙂 The heavy stone architecture and wall mosaics are notable.

Walked past a who's who of Italian designers on our way to our next stop…the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. The bulding's facade was done in iconic white and green marble, like the nearby Duomo. The interior was impressive but restrained…with some very beautiful frescoes. Around the corner, visited the Farmacia di S.Maria Novella…"the oldest pharmacy in Florence" (maybe in all of Italy? I can't remember). The pharmacy had its roots from 1381 when Dominican friars made rose-scented water (supposedly to ward off the plague). The pharmacy itself opened in 1612 in its current location. The rooms smelled of roses.

Time for lunch. Tattoria Anita (another Suzanne recommendation) hit the spot with hearty Tuscan cuisine at reasonable prices. Our pasta dishes were simple and delicious. Jeff enjoyed his breaded chicken cutlet. My "mixed meat" platter was a bit more…adventurous? Tuscan style roasted potatoes on the side of both dishes. Due cappuccini, per favore.

Visted an underwhelming museum highlighting Leonardo Da Vinci"s scentific inventions. A couple of the video presentations were very well done, but the overall "museum" was poor…definitely overpriced at 5€.

In striking comparison, our next two stops cost nothing and were rich and captivating…two lesser known churches full of history.

First, the (relatively) small Basilica di San Lorezo, situated on a busy public square towards the Mercate Centrale. The church is in mid-renovation…more like early-renovation…so interior scaffolding obscured much of the ceiling. But the front altar and visible ceiling were colorful and grand. A gentle, elderly priest dressed in white greeted us, asked us where we were from, and told us about his travels to the U.S. before he was so gray (as he tugged on his short gray hair to accentuate the point). He said goodbye with a heartfelt "Viva America!". We gave a few euros towards the renovations.

Wandered next to the tucked-away Basilica della Santos Annunziata behind the Accademia. Entered through a glass-covered inner courtyard and then into an unexpectedly enormous church. In addition to the usual elaborate main altar, this church had more than a dozen side chapels…each one crammed full of shiny and/or colorful and/or chiseled object d'art. A secondary altar at the rear, was decked out in towering silver pillars and candles. Breathtaking.

Finished the daylight hours with a stroll along the Arno with the sun setting. Skullers practiced on the calm river. Sidewalks were full of fellow sun-worshipers.

Dinner was at yet another Suzanne recommendation…and a third winner in a row. The Coquinarius wine bar served up mouth-wathering, creative fare. Our pastas were our best yet: a rich tagliatelli with a meaty rabbit sauce; large raviolli pillows of cheese and spinach topped with a ham sauce and stringed zuccinni. Two fresh salads followed for the entrees. A bottle of Chianti Classico. Deserts of warm chocolate souffle and creamy cheesecake. Best meal so far.
Finished the evening with late drinks and music in the Santa Croce area which seems to be the young, hip place to be. Overall, Florence has a lot of late night energy to soak in.