Blog Archives

OK. Please excuse this post…I just have to get this off my chest.

First off…I am so thrilled about the election last night. Obama gave an inspiring acceptance speech of hope and inclusiveness and the future. I was truly moved and so proud to be an American. I am certain that I will not agree with 100% of Obama’s decisions, but I am excited to finally see a leader try to lift up the country.

Of course, the evening was not without disappointment. By a slim margin, Californians saw fit to single out same-sex couples and codify discrimination into our state constitution. (It is shocking to me that in California, you can amend the state constitution with a simple majority vote…that would seem to open up our constitution to the whims of populism.)

I know a young gay couple who live in LA. They rushed to get married last week…swept up in the same euphoria of hope that propelled to Obama to wide victory in California. Today, they woke up with their newly-inked marriage in limbo, because…well…what would we tell our children about THAT kind of relationship.

Yesterday, more than SIXTY PERCENT of Californians voted to protect the rights of farm animals. Only 48% thought the rights of same sex couples were worth defending.

Nevertheless, I will not let this setback tarnish my sheer joy of Obama’s election. He demonstrates first hand that civil rights are worth fighting for. The gay community will get its day as well, as long as we keep treasuring our steps forward and learning from the inevitable steps back.

The world looks a little different under a bright blue San Francisco sky. We live in a bubble of hope.

So, here are the shots on our day driving from Siena to the Umbrian town of Orvieto. You’ll notice that I had a little fun with some of the hotel photos. The lighting was odd and kept getting washed out…so I just had fun with them.

Another sunny morning in Siena. Said our goodbyes to Daniella. (She informed us that her contrada/neighborhood was one of the ones selected for the Palio in the ceremony the evening we arrived…hoorah!) Shut the heavy door of the Palazzo Masi and headed for the car.

Took a winding path south and east. Crossed from Tuscany to Umbria. Emily got confused finding our destination…but then that is becoming a familiar theme…Italy clearly isn’t her home turf. In fairness, our destination was on a dirt road in the middle of a field. And is it all that bad to take an extra road or two in Italy?

Arrived at the picturesque Locanda Palazzone…an “agriturismo” style of hotel. The Locanda is a small boutique hotel located on a working vineyard. Situated high on a hillside outside of Orvieto with sweeping views of the grape vines, grassy hills, outcroppings of ancient tufa, and of course, majestic Orvieto perched 1000 feet above the valley floor.

Drove into Orvieto for an afternoon walk. Visited its grand Duomo, similar in exterior style to Siena’s Duomo. Inside, a choir was rehearsing a capella. A very beautiful cathedral indeed. Later we heard evening vesper chants in the side chapel.

Peeked into several of Orvieto’s ceramic shops. Colorful designs of bright yellows and blues. Walked along the high city perch to a commanding medieval fortress ruin and an ancient Etruscan temple ruin (from around 500 B.C. if I read the sign right). In fact, the soft volcanic tufu beneath Orvieto is riddled with Etruscan tombs and tunnels…hopefully we’ll see those tomorrow.

The sun was low when we returned to the hotel. Everything looked extra green. Jeff took an early evening dip in a VERY cold pool…I dangled my feet in. An amazingly fresh and flavorful dinner on the hotel terrace overlooking the valley and Orvieto. Just us and a French couple…it felt like we had the world to ourselves. Our host (also the “innkeeper”) recommended a white wine from the Palazzone vineyard…2002 Campo del Guardiana very rich golden color and a flavor to match. Dinner was a fixed menu…which meant we could sit back and relax. Flan di piselli al profumo di maggiorana…a warm flan made from peas (perhaps?) with fresh salad greens. Umbrichelli all’orvietana…a super-flavorful, thick tomato and herb sauce over a long lumpy pasta…amazing. Bascala pomodorini e olive con spinaci e patate arrosto…a light white fish with a delightful seasoning and sides of potatoes and spinach…both wonderful. Muosse al cioccolato…uh…chocolate mousse 🙂

We finished the meal with espressos. A kitten named Daphne wanted to play as the warm evening breeze turned the table cloth into a tempting cat toy. Darkness settled around us. We could see Orvieto’s Duomo lit up hovering in the sky.

Something tells me we will sleep well tonight.

Wow. Who would have thought that soooooo much time would pass since my last Italy post. I swear…these will all be posted before the end of the year 🙂 The good part about this is that I do love re-living all of these scenes. Its like a dear old movie that you pop into the DVD player on a cold night. Anyhow…enjoy these from our final day in Siena.

There is no better way to work off an illness than to have a full day of sunshine, fresh air, and walking 🙂

Started the day with a visit to the awe-inspiring Duomo a few blocks from our B&B. This cathedral is by far our favorite in Italy. Its green and white marble exterior is peppered with elaborate marble sculptures. The signature black and white marble interior (the colors of Siena) provide the backdrop for a rich tapestry of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. The ceilings are painted a deep blue with gold stars. Any one of the side chapels would itself make for a spectacular church. The Duomo is renowned for its intricate in-laid marble mosaic floors. Jeff’s favorite room: the Piccolomini Library, with its colorful 500-year-old frescoes.

Grabbed a make-shift breakfast from a market on the way to the car: bananas, juices, peanut M&Ms :). Grabbed water for the hot day ahead. Already in the lower 80s. Near 90 as we neared our first destination.

At San Galgano, parked in a huge paid parking lot in the middle of nowhere…with literally three cars in it. A 15-min walk in the sun to the ruins of an 13th century abbey. Impressive, but no interpretive assistance. Another 15-min walk up a rocky path to the tiny, round 12th-century Chapel of San Galgano.

Wound through Tuscany on the way back making a small pit stop at Chiusidino for some photos from the dramatic heights. Picked destinations along the way by spotting appealing towers or towns on nearby hills. Made our way to a second abbey south of Siena in the Crete Senese or “Sienese Crests”…this one a working abbey. Monte Oliveto Maggiore with a small but beautiful church and a complex of sunlit rooms and a cloister courtyard with famous Renaissance frescoes depicting the life of St. Benedict. Greggorian chants in the abbey as we were leaving.

Returned to Siena for dinner. Got some of my appetite back…enough for a wonderful pasta dish outdoors at Trattoria Papei…simple and classic spaghetti al ragu…I wanted rabbit, but I was worried about keeping food down. Jeff had paparadelle al ragu di carne, petti di pollo, and Tuscan white beans. Ricciarelli and cappuccini to finish.

We walked one last time through the Campo and up to the Duomo taking some final nighttime photos. By midnight, the young folks were just beginning to emerge. Jeff woke at 3:15am and could still here revelry in the streets…definitely a university town…at least at night.

Although the air was still chilly from our dense morning fog, I just had to walk over to the Ferry Building this afternoon for the final Tuesday farmers market of October. By the time lunch arrived, the fog had burned off, and the market was lit by a warm light.

I started with a warm panini from Boccalone (“tasty salted pig parts”). I leaned against a water-side railing as I ate the sandwich–full of house-made salami and olive tapenade–while two seagulls floated beneath me hoping I would drop morsels. I dared not taunt them. (“Quoth the seagull, ‘Nevermore.'”)

Enlivened by the fresh air, I grabbed a moist cupcake for dessert from the Miette patisserie. New seagulls arrived…these with a sweet tooth…or sweet beaks.

I squashed a twinge of post-cupcake guilt with a tart Black Twig apple from the Devoto Gardens stand. (Doesn’t the rustic look of this apple epitomize autumn?)

Fully warmed by the sun and full from my treats, I grabbed a scrumptious New Orleans iced coffee from Blue Bottle Coffee for my slow stroll back to the office.

How I hate to see October go.

Today started off quite warm, with an intense sun. I snapped this shot on my way for iced lattes…yum. As the sun wanes, the air has taken on a cool, autumn chill.