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The low rumble of delivery trucks on the cobbled street below signaled the re-awakening of the sleepy old town. A hearty breakfast to fuel the day: perfectly runny eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, and yummy little pancakes crêpes filled with rhubarb and blueberry preserves. Strong coffee with warm milk. 

Time for a day trip. 

Our route to Mont Saint Michel took us along the coast. The tide was out, leaving the boats tilted on the muddy bottom. Stone buildings–built to weather winter storms–lined small town roads. Seaside turned to farmland…fields of corn and carrots and cabbages. Rows of drying onions. 

Mont St. Michel rose in the distance. 

We parked in the towns new parking lots, no longer at the base of the rocky island. We learned that the lots were moved as part of the long term restoration of the famous bay–with its very famous tides–that surrounds the island. Over time, silt had been deposited, in part due to the man-made causeway joining the island to the mainland. A new engineering marvel involving a new elevated causeway to allow water to circulate, plus an up-river dam to create stronger flows to flush silt. Very impressive. 

Mont Saint Michel is every bit the bucket list, picture postcard you envision. Tuning out the ubiquitous souvenir shops and restaurants, and you are left to ponder your every step as you trace the steep winding path up the hill. No views to distract your mind, you focus on your footsteps. 

Partway up, tiny Eglise Saint-Pierre with its wood domed ceiling offers a short respite. A side chapel honors L’archange Saint Michel. 

We continue up. And up. The steps seem steeper. 

Just below the abbey, we find steps to a portion of the ramparts. Finally…a view to quench our curiosity. The tide is out…way out. Chattery kids are guided in huge packs out across the mud flats. Their bright clothing add color to the subtle browns and grays. 

More steep steps. And more. Even as we reach the base of the abbey…more steps up inside the abbey. Impressive. Exhausting. Inspiring. 

You can imagine yourself a pilgrim arriving along this same route…making this same final push to the relief inside: physical, mental, spiritual. 

The Abbey. As we reached the very top of the Mont, the grandeur of God’s creation lay before us. The sun and clouds created subtle hue variations on the muted palette of sandy mud, shallow rivulets, and low pastures. Suddenly, melodic chants emanated from the abbey’s main chamber, drawing us in. The harmonies of midday mass filled the soaring stone room. A tattered brown rope hung from a hole at the base of the hidden bell tower above. Faded purple and green stained glass echoed the muted hues outside. 

In the cloister next door–typically a place for meditation–three women wrapped themselves around stone columns…posing for selfies like Satan’s whores. (Apparently, while the Pope is away in the U.S., his European flock is straying!) 

The route through the abbey wound down. Layer upon layer of rooms, hugging the rocks. A favorite: the Great Pillared Crypt. A dark and brooding room…yet still inspiring and worth an expected pause. Muffled steps. Long dark shadows slipped across stone columns 6-7 feet in diameter. 
We ate a late light lunch along the ramparts. Croque Monsieur. Frites. Salad. A welcomed cold beer. 

We explored every nook and cranny, re-tracing our steps back to the top of the ramparts. The tide began to come back. The tiny rivulets grew and began to join, erasing muddy footsteps. A clean canvas for tomorrow’s visitors. 

We walked the elevated causeway back the mainland, but we kept turning out gaze back to the Mont, lit in the sinking sun. 

We paused to admire the dam. Beautiful in its own right, but with an engineering might. By now, with the tide returning, the mighty river flowed backwards through the dam. A daily routine that defying your first instinct. Soon, once the ocean has filled the river, the dam gates will close for a while, until the tide recedes, and the flood is released. 

Our evening drive retraced our path through fields and along the shore. We returned to St. Malo in time for sunset along the ramparts and a wonderful warm dinner with seafood and beef. Very much the epitome of this bountiful perch on the edge of sea and land. 

 





 
We arose with tired limbs but an adventurous spirit. After a hearty breakfast quiche Lorraine paired with a flaky pain au chocolate, we locked the apartment door behind us, walked a few short blocks to the SNCF train station, and picked up our car from Avis. Emily sprung to life after a couple of years absence and guided us smoothly out of town. With a fleeting glimpse, the Chateau de Versailles begged us to return soon. 

Ironically, the first stop for our grey Citreön Picssso was the pastel gardens of Claude Monet. Giverny seemed like a relatively short drive from Versailles. 

Monet draws quite a crowd, even on a drizzly Wednesday. His gardens expose the inspiration for his palette. His house exposes his (literal) window on the world and and his clever appreciation for whimsy. His appreciation of color flowed from home to garden seemlessly. And his water lily ponds…well they are truly a sight to be seen. On the surface, just a peanut shaped pond with scattered water lilies. 

But wait. 
The breeze blows and the water shimmers…just a bit. Suddenly these lilies are surrounded by a gentle rhythm of motion. Then the sun comes out from behind dark rain clouds. Now the reflections on the ripples pick up the lush willow trees and colorful pops of wildflowers. Monet’s genius is revealed. 

After a stroll through the quiet town of Giverny’s galleries and restaurants, we headed on for St. Malo…our magical destination on the Brittany coast. 

Legendary and ethereal Mont St Michel towered on the low hazy coast as we exited the freeway. Perfectly lit in the late afternoon sun, it called to us. No wait…resist…that’s for tomorrow. 

Arriving at the old walled city of St. Malo, we parked just outside the Grand Porte. Our boutique hotel for the evening–La Maison des Armateurs–lay a few short steps inside the gate. 
The fast-setting sun hastened our pace as we hurried to the city ramparts, which completely encircle the old town. Brooding clouds mixed with warm sun, filling the sky and the broad bay in front of us with drama. Jeff shared fond stories of his previous visit with Matt, and how the sudden tide covered their pathway back from a rocky outcropping topped with old fortifications.  

As evening set in, we dined on hearty galettes, crepes, and wine on the top of the ramparts. A perfect meal to warm our bodies and prepare us for the chilly stroll ahead.
Salty air filled our lungs as we circled the quiet city. 

On our way back to the hotel, we were lured into comfy L’Univers with its square-side seating, bright orange decor…two glasses of Carignan rouge, please. The Girl From Impanima played inside. The swallows chirped and swooped in the dark skies overhead. Two more glasses, please. 

What a perfect day.  

After quiche and chocolate croissants for breakfast; fueled by hot coffee, we headed out for a long day of walking and exploring every nook and cranny of Versailles. 

It was a peaceful morning in the gardens. The fully-laden busses from Paris were most certainly in-bound, but for now the grounds were for us and the occasional startled dove. 

After a leisurely walk thru numerous allée and another stop at the Anish Kapoor cube in the Étoile Bosquet, we arrived at the gate of Le Grand Trianon…getaway for Louis XIV and subsequent monarchs and presidents. Each room with tall ceilings and equally tall windows led from one to the next with views out to the carefully framed views of trees, flower and endless sky. The rooms though very grand exuded a homey feel…albeit one of luxury. Sitting room led to bedroom, led to games room, led to billiard room. This was a house to relax and enjoy versus the rigid formality of the main palace a short distance away. What a difference…even in the crowds who have the time and wherewithal to venture this far. Rooms of malachite and interesting place of colors caught our eye. A highlight was the long gallery featuring paintings from the 17th century of the many bosquets designed and built for the pleasure of Louus XIV and his court. With the light streaming thru the windows creating long light and shadows across the marquetry floors, we were inspired to linger and partake in some photography in each of our styles. The end attraction was the wing in the bois (wood) which is normally closed due to its use as a residence of the President of France, but with restoration work ongoing, the museum has staged an exhibit highlighting the historical use of the Trianon from Louis XIV to present. 

Exiting from the exhibit, we immediately headed towards our next destination…Le Petit Trianon.
Le Petit Trianon was originally built for Louis XV and his mistress du jour, but after his death, it was gifted by Louis XVI to his wife, Marie Antoinette. After coming of age after marriage at a young age, Marie Antoinette yearned for some privacy and a place to call her own. Her mark is everywhere… monograms at ever turn, a gem of a theatre in the garden, beautiful garden buildings (Temple of Love), and her very on fleek addition…Le Hameau. 

This village of rustic buildings replicated a model farm on the outside recalling simpler times, but exuded luxury on the inside not to jar her discerning guests. All makes for an idyllic walk from one view to the next. With fluffy clouds, we snapped away on our cameras trying to capture the scene for future memories and to share with those not yet able to experience. The history of the place draws the crowds, but the setting in the modern world should provide the wonder. It is simply beautiful regardless of its provence. 

After partaking in a delightful afternoon snack of quiche Lorraine and a vanilla custard pastry, we headed back out towards the Grand Canal in the park. Following it’s contours towards the main palace and its glowing facade in the setting sun. From this far distance, the entire palace seems to float above the green park like a golden necklace. Only Anish Kapoors temporary exhibit of art breaks up the rhythm of palace and park. Stopping at the Fountain of Apollo at the base of the canal, we turned out attention towards the main attraction…the wondrous setting sun. 

Dinner of sea bass and a succulent filet. Wine at a tiny bar called No Water. 31,719 steps today!! Approximately 13 miles. No wonder our legs are so tired!! 

 





 
Morning coffee fought off the effects of morning drizzle as we strolled to the chateau for our morning tour. Smart move, Jeffrey, buying guided tour tickets in advance. Looking at the regular line snaking back and forth across the grand court…insane!!  

We are convinced that Versailles is cursed. With a few minutes to kill before our tour, we headed towards the gardens for a quick stroll. Drizzle turned to a downpour just before we reached the entrance. We retreated to a cozy underpass with a hundred of our closest (wet) friends. 

Headed over to our guided skip-the-line tour. A quiet-spoken French woman led us through the private apartments of the King. (Spanning Louis XIV, XV, and XVI.) This was an entirely new part of the chateau for us, and well worth the wait. This set of rooms felt impressive and ornate, and yet intimate. Luxury in a rather modern way which seemed more liveable. You could picture the Kings spending their downtime here, versus the rigid formality of the grand state rooms. Here, we saw the king’s bedroom where he actually slept; not to be confused with the state bedroom where he had his morning rising ceremony. Impressive highlights included a large clock still in perfect order and keeing time, date, and astrological time; an impressive and famous desk designed to safeguard state secrets with the quarter turn of a key; a large library keeping the King’s private collection of books; and dining room and games room where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette entertained their young circle of friends. The tour ended in the chateau’s grand opera house, an engineering and acoustic marvel made entirely of wood but painted to mimic marble and bronze. You could picture Marie Antoinette sitting in her private box engrossed in a sumptuous performance. 

Leaving our tour, we joined the masses in a slow march through the state rooms. Truly magnificent sights like the Hall of Mirrors and the King and Queens state apartments…their grandeur still-visible above the oblivious visitors and their endless selfies. 

Famished from fighting back the Huns, we sat down at quiet Angelina restaurant inside the chateau for a Parisienne club sandwich, two mouth-watering pastries, and much needed iced coffee. The signature Le Mont-Blanc is a chocolatey delight. The cheesecake citron is smooth and tangy. Oddly the sandwich never arrived. The day moves on. 

Finally, we ventured back into the gardens…and yes, it started to rain again. Umbrellas up. Puddles reflected the dramatic clouds. Look…a rainbow arched over the chateau. Umbrellas down. We chased the occasional sunbeam lighting up the chateau against a dark sky. The orangerie was open for a quick peek at rows of carefully tended citrus and palm trees. A lonely musical fountain tucked away down muddy paths put on a final performance just in time for us to enjoy. 

After a long day (and the mysteriously disappearing sandwich) we left the chateau and headed to a nearby creperie. Two wonderfully savory galettes, wonderful wine, and two sumptuous crepes. A late evening stroll through the Notre Dame neighborhood, followed by later evening drinks at Coup D’état. 

 





 Perfect sleeping temps combined with delightful exhaustion for a re-energizing rest. Add stimulating espresso, and we off for what was to be a ten mile walking day. 

We spent the morning exploring the Saint-Louis neighborhood, starting with its name-sake Cathedral. Monday’s are VERY quiet in Versailles, because the Chateau is closed, and we took full advantage of this calm. 

The proud-yet-simple 18th century church had its own sense of serenity. Soaring ceilings that muffled footsteps. Church workers gently sweeping well-worn stone floors. A few quiet visitors respectfully gazing up at colorful figures tucked away in a dozen-or-so chapels. 

We continued our stroll to Parc Balbi, a tiny walled park with a quiet looped path past a lazy duck pond. Students from a nearby school gathered in quiet groups. Continuing on, we took a gravely footpath to one of the Palaces grand water basins–the Pièce d’Eau des Suisses (Swiss Ornamental Lake) built in the late 1600s. A shady tree-lined path ringed the lake. Joggers and bikers shared our peaceful loop back to the chateau. We grabbed a simple lunch from a patisserie and ate on the Saint-Louis church steps.  

After a quick Uber ride thru an amazing underground tunnel between Versailles and Rueil-Malmaison, we arrived at the country home of Napoleon and Josephine. This relatively simple country home was their first splurge as Napoleon’s star was rising within the French army and political system. This home remained Josephine’s favorite and her refuge after divorce from Napoleon until her early death. The house is a beautiful example of Empire style with daring use of colors and design which exuded luxury without the ostentation of prior regimes. A music room with bright strawberry fabric chairs and settees set against olive green felt walls. Entire bedrooms draped as if the insides of tents. Many aspects would still feel contemporary today. The large billiard table in the room just beyond the entry vestibule would be the envy of any guy or gal cave. 

The tour was a simple audio tour with a sparse crowd, allowing a tranquil viewing of the intimate spaces enjoyed by this illustrious couple during the height of their power. Unlike their many other residences in and out of Paris, this is the only that remains standing or with the look and feel as if they had just stepped out. With many artifacts concentrated here, this is the spot any Napoleon aficionado should visit. 

Finishing the house tour, we ventured into the surrounding gardens to take in views of the chateau across rolling lawns, thru dense platings of flowers, and even it’s reflection in the gentle pond stretching across the back garden. Josephine was quite the gardener and would be proud of the care taken today to provide as close to a historical replica of what she left and additions in the style that should would consider pleasing. 

We Ubered back to Versailles–albeit with a few Uber hiccups. After a quick stroll in the Versailles gardens, we ventured close by to have drinks at the popular Le Coup D’état restaurant in Saint-Louis. Dinner at a nearby crepery really hit the spot: gooey galettes filled with ham or sausage and sunny-side-up eggs. For dessert, a decadent crepe with peaches, ice cream, and whipped cream. Oh yeah…drizzled in chocolate. Yum!!