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The beaches in Okinawa are a quiet gray in January. But against this muted backdrop, the subtle flavors of new food experiences were able to pop. Tuna and sweet rice spiked with hidden wasabi. Crispy pork katsu covered in a creamy Japanese curry. Decadent avocado tempura. Warm ramen in a wonderful soy broth. Crunchy-yet-moist fried frog legs. A hearty Mongolian BBQ piled high over noodles. Shrimp tempura and salmon roe snapped from a parade of plates on a winding sushi conveyer belt. Chewy pig’s ear. Addictive crispy chicken pieces in a salty teriyaki sauce. All accompanied by engaging conversation with new friends and washed down with cold, refreshing Japanese beers.

From above, the old medina of Fes displays a calm uniformity. Layers of two and three story buildings gracefully cascade down the gently sloping hilside. Everything is so carefully packed together, that no streets or people are visible from above.


But as you get in a bit closer, the buildings begin to show their ruggedness. You can see how buildings were constructed…leaning on one another as they rose…like trees fighting for dominance (and sunlight) in a forest.

And then you get thrown right in. Street level exposes the frenetic pace of Fes during the day. As they have done since the middle ages, residents stream through narrow streets. Shops and make-shift stalls cram into every crevice. Its a scene that sets the heart racing.

And yet…hidden away from sight…stand calm mosques. Literal sanctuaries from the chaos just outside. Places that visitors can only peer into…and wish to explore…if just for a moment…to catch a breath…and reflect.

Winter rains in San Francisco transform side streets into other worlds waiting to be explored. Even my regular routes provide surprises.

Not much to report from our return home. Long flights…but completely uneventful. Bad airplane food…but some hearty fare during our layover at IAD. A bit late into SFO…but a cheerful smile from Yusuke when he picked us up. A perfectly low-key day to wrap up a trip full of adventure.


Time to sleep, reflect…and start planning the next trip!!

There is something oddly freeing about beginning your day with no luggage. Certainly no fretting over which outfit will fit the weather…will the clouds burn off…will it warm as expected? Nope. Doesn’t matter.


It will be another feeling altogether if my bag doesn’t show up by evening.


Began the day with coffee and croissants from a nearby Starbucks. Then off to the Prado. What a beautiful morning to be outside. Everything feels so lush. Breathe deeply and take it in.


The Prado. One of the nice things about a return trip to a large, iconic museum is that you can take a step back and focus on the things you really like. For us, we are continuously fascinated by the Prado’s collection of El Greco, Velázquez, and Goya. But we also enjoyed an (appropriately) small exhibit on miniatures. Classic European museums are wonderful for sparking artistic creativity.


El Retiro. We’ve visited this grand park twice before. Once on the cusp of summer, when fountains are dry and people only walk at dusk when the 100+ temperatures subside. And once in winter, when (again) the fountains are dry and people only walk during the brief midday sun. So autumn in the Retiro is a true delight. The fall colors are starting to pop. The grass is green and fragrant. And once-quiet gardens are filled with the splash of fountains.


On the good news/bad news front, my luggage was found…but it will not be delivered to Madrid until after we leave in the morning. I’m sure I will see my clothes eventually 🙂


We had dinner tonight at Lateral on the Plaza Santa Ana. Really wonderful tapas…one more night of tapas before we head home. Wonderful meatballs; chicken brochettes; a dreamy tortilla; and a surprising quesadilla that rocked.


Walked through familiar streets from past trips. A couple of beers at Liquid. Madrid feels very comfortable. Like a conversation with an old friend. A great way to end our trip.