Blog Archives

An early morning return to the top of the Arc de Triomphe revealed the mottled sun and fantastic grey and white clouds that would accent scenes throughout the day. After breakfast, caught the Metro down to the Isle de la Cite, the island where Paris began. Toured La Chapelle–a church built in the 12th century. La Chapelle is renowned for its stained glass, which wraps around the church as one nearly seamless window. Afterwards, walked down into a museum that gives you a peek at the early Roman foundations of Paris. Then it was on to the main event on the island: Notre Dame. The cathedral is truly magnificent both inside and out, with medieval eye candy in every direction. Lunched across the street from the cathedral having a yummy croque monsieur and nutella crepe. Afterwards, walked along the Seine to the Musee d’Orsay–a “modern” art museum (by European standards) in a grand old train station. Saw some amazing Art Nouveau decorative arts, impressionistic painting, and a lot of sculpture. Picked a couple great books…one on the building of the Paris Metro. After closing the museum, headed back down the Seine to Notre Dame for some early evening photos. Went around back and saw the Holocaust monument at the eastern end of the island. Walked over to the ajoining island, Isle St. Louis, for a short stroll thru the picturesque streets. As the daylight waned, headed for the Eiffel Tower. Waited out some rain showers on the way and then joined the throngs for this must-see check-list icon. The views from the middle and top levels got better and better as the sunlight faded and the city lights came on. The view was only marred by the bone-chilling winds. Ended the day with a post-midnight dinner at Hippopotomas, near the hotel on the corner of Rue de Wagram and Rue de Faubourg de St. Honore.

A mix of sun and fluffy clouds today with periods of gray and light rain. Perfect day to tackle the Louvre. Wound around and around and up and down through the massive collection of sculptures and paintings and other objects du art. Yes…saw the Mona Lisa among other art icons. Morning and afternoon in the museum were separated by a light lunch. Walked a short while along the Seine before returning to the hotel to rest tired feet. Dinner in La Marais (charming a second time).

Woke at 5:30 today to beautiful sunshine. Decided to get up and walk in Green Park one last time. Had the park to myself for some vivid green pictures. Back to shower and pack and pick up Jeff for our early Tube ride to Waterloo station. Insane check-in lines at the Eurostar terminal. Platform 21, Coach 15, Seats 15/16. Sped through green English countryside. Entered the Channel Tunnel…popped out 20 min later to find green French countryside. Hot ham and cheese sanwiches on the train…spent our last pounds. Arrived in Paris at Gare du Nord trainstation and picked up our euros. Walked a few blocks to the #2 Metro line to the Arc de Triomphe station. Arrived at our hotel–the Hotel Élysées Ceramic. Dropped off luggage and walked back to the Arc de Triomphe. Bought our Paris Museum Passes. Got dizzy climbing the circular stairs to the top of the Arc for panoramic views of the city. Lunch with outdoor tables along the Champs Élysées. Took Metro to the Louvre…not to go in today, but as a starting point for a healthy walk through the Jardin des Tuileries past the Grand and Petit Palais and along the broad Champs Élysées returning to the Arc de Triomphe where we began. Dinner in La Marais.

Woken two hours (!) early by an erroneous wake up call…but the hotel staff are so polite, who could be upset. After 30 min trying to fall back asleep, decided to wander and take photos instead. The city is quiet on a bank holiday weekend morning. Had to wander until 7am for the coffee shops to open. Sipped my latte in Green Park. After breakfast, hopped the Tube to Waterloo station and caught a train to Windsor. Walked the grounds of Windsor Castle (‘the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world’) and toured the extravagent state rooms. The Queen was out, but this was Jeff’s third visit, so he played tour guide. The castle’s grand medieval chapel–St. George’s–provided a gothic roof over our heads when the rain started to pick up. Fish and chips in town for late lunch and then back to the train station bound for London. After a rest and break from the rain at the hotel, we had drinks and dinner at Bertorelli in Soho. Walked back through Picadilli Circus. Early to bed to pack and catch a train to Paris in the morning.

[Note: The trouble with pounds is that prices in London are just about right if the conversion was 1:1. For example, my grande latte at Starbucks was just under 3 pounds, which is what it costs in dollars in SF. Food, drink, and transportation seem similarly priced. But the exchange is almost 2:1 right now (!), which makes everything here outrageous. Not sure how the average person here lives. On the upside, this will make the Euro seem like a deal.]

Woke to a light rain out the window. Hearty English breakfast in the hotel…’the best in London’. Grabbed a latte from Cafe Nero nearby. Walked through posh Mayfair on the way to the British Museum. Wandered aimlessly through the museum collections. Throngs of schoolkids, particularly in the Egyptian parts. Short walk to the Soane Museum, a small architecture collection. Took the Tube back to Green Park to meet up with Chris, who is joining us for several days. A quick lunch of sandwiches and soda near the hotel. Then back on the Tube to Knightsbridge. Walked through Harrods…Chris bought some chocolates. Walked through a very green Hyde Park to the Albert Memorial and then to Kensington Palace. Hopped back on the Tube to SOHO where we had dinner at the Dehli Brasserie. Crowd watching in SOHO until the bars closed at 11. Back to the hotel to rest the walking feet.