Friday (Dubrovnik)…

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reakfast was windy but not rainy, so we ate outside on the Stradun. A chocolate brioche added a bit of sweet to our savory egg dishes. A steel drum performer played the same dozen notes over and over and over…

First sightseeing for the day…ducked into the Franciscan Monastery off the Stradun just inside the Pila gate. Paid our 30 kn per person and wandered the cloistered courtyard filled with grapefruit trees and a fountain. There is a comforting calm within the walls, with nary a sound from the hundreds of visitors mere feet away just outside. Frescos decorating the niches in the arches above. The area shows subtle signs of the damage wrought during the recent conflict. Most has been repaired, a few spots are maintained as subtle reminders of the ravages of war upon cultural treasures. The small museum attached showcased religious treasuries…vestments, reliquaries, bones of saints, and items from the ancient pharmacy run by the monks. The site also has a modern pharmacy serving the needs of the populous.

Climbed steep narrow steps toward the high corner tower that anchors the top-left corner of the city. Every step decreased the number of visitors dramatically…and at the top, only a few spry walkers who had broken free of their tour groups far below.

We happened upon a hidden archeological site, through a tiny door, across a stark-white modern basketball courtyard, and down some narrow metal steps. We were greeted by an eager archeology graduate who beamed with happiness when we expressed interest in his museum site rather than being lost looking for the entrance to the city walls. For our paltry 30 kuna each, he took us on a personal tour of the site…a foundry dating to the 15th century. Stone basins for melting metal. Molds for cannon balls and church bells. An offshoot of the city aqueduct with pools to separate out heavy deposits. Pottery from the earthquake that destroyed the foundry (and most of the city) highlighted trading relationships with Moorish Spain, Venice, and the Ottomans. The museum was small, but brand new and very well done. Well worth a quick stop out of the sun.

Continuing along the outer wall, we happened upon tiny Lady Pi Pi–an intimate restaurant with a serene grape vibe-covered terrace. A shocking fountain statue grabs the attention of passers by. We both ordered ćevapi…hearty portions of the succulent meat, freshly grilled…charred grilled vegetables and French fries in the side. A light breeze and a view of the city below. A cruise ship sailed by, momentarily dwarfing the fortified city…a reminder that rowdy marauders awaited us down the hill!

Continuing around the inside of the outer wall. Popped our heads through the northern gate (the Buža gate). Continued on to the Dominican Monastery, similar in structure to the Franciscan counterpart from earlier. The quiet cloister grew oranges versus grapefruit. The adjacent church showed recent stained glass and paintings to replace those lost during the war. Stopped in the courtyard under an orange tree to blog a bit.

4:38…what better time for cocktails on the beach. Just outside the Ploče gate is the eastwest banje beach club. The lounge pulsed with club music. A fresh breeze swept up off the cool blue water. A fantastic (and yes…pricey) mojito with a slice of kiwi to add a twist. A “yellow bird” with rum mixed with tropical flavors of banana, orange, and pineapple. Pink early-season bodies sat on white lounge chairs or just on the rocky beach. A few souls waded in to feel the chilly salt water on their skin.

Crossing the old town a bit, we visited the Jesuit Church sitting hi-atop the rise toward the sea. The towering altar was richly painted with colorful murals. A craggy grotto at the rear of the chapel was crammed with little statues and decorations.

As we ventured out after changing for dinner, a light rain started. This turned walkers into sitters and made scoping out a dinner spot more tricky. We decided to try a cozy restaurant–Kopun–on the gravely square in front of the Jesuit Church. Huge umbrellas cast a protective shield over tables. We grabbed the last “dry” table, which had a prime view of the church. This view came with a price, as occasional gusts of wind sent a light spray over the edge of the table. But the experience was exhilarating…particularly when distant lightening lit up the sky. We had yet another fantastic Croatian red wine, this one a hearty blend of some type. Jeff ordered skewers of monk fish and bacon cooked in a luscious wine sauce. I tried a Croatian staple of capon (a castrated rooster) cooked with a flavorful mushroom sauce. For dessert a surprising house desert…some variant of flan with tangy orange peel. Also a warm apple strudel…
yummy. Torrential rain came as we finished dessert…so we ordered cappuccinos and rode it out.

Sporadic light rain as we walked wet streets. We ducked into a bar for a beer. In spite of the rain, a healthy Friday night crowd was out and about.

Here’s to another really fantastic day, full of unexpected adventures.