Thursday (Dubrovnik)…

Woke to grey skies and a calming feeling that we didn’t need to drive anywhere today…or tomorrow…or beyond. Loved the driving…now looking forward to the walking 🙂

As a storm brewed, we ate a satisfying breakfast of eggs and ham and cappuccinos at Cafe Festival, mere steps from our apartment. Strong winds preceded a sudden downpour. Umbrellas sprouted like colorful flowers. Less prepared tour groups sought cover under flapping canopies. Perhaps one more slowly-sipped cappuccino is in order! The rain passed quickly and life returned to normal.

In no time, the skies were crystal blue and white puffy clouds added visual decoration. We took a counter-clockwise route around the old town, hugging near the outer wall. Narrow streets. Steep staircases. Thick walls keeping the sea (and invaders) at bay. In a couple of places, you can pop through the walls onto the rocky coast. Tiered seating areas spill down to the strong Adriatic. Sun lovers braved chilly (but warming) breezes and sipped cocktails. The occasional surge sent sprays of water up into viewers who erupted into surprise and laughter. Feral cats found sunny nooks to nap. We ducked in out of the sun to the 300 year old cathedral. Simple decoration focused attention on ornate marble side-chapels.

For lunch a simple but satisfying pizza capriciosa from Mea Culpa. Pleasant outdoor seating in shorts. Light breezes tingled the skin.

Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering. As the afternoon light turned golden, we headed through the Pile Gate and up to an imposing defense on a nearby rock point. The Fort of St. Lawrence allowed us dramatic views back across the entire city, our first perspective on the true topology of this unexpected city. Dramatic clouds and the bright blue Adriatic added to the breathtaking scene.

Back inside the walls, we headed for the coastal side of the city to have a drink at one of the two cafes that operate on the craggy rocks below two tiny doors in the fortification. Two Karlovačko beers as the light dipped. Swallows swooped overhead. Two more beers. The Adriatic glistened near sunset. Catherine and Wesley joined us unexpectedly and shared a few stories about the day.

For dinner, we had reservations at the popular Taj Mahal restaurant…oddly named for a traditional Bosnian restaurant. We tried another sampler platter to compare with the platter we had in Mostar. The food here was excellent, with variations on traditional Bosnian fare. Once again the ćevapi stood out with us. We shared another tufahije for dessert. Drinks afterwards at Sky Bar…a rowdy Australian crowd drank bottom-shelf liquor in blue, plastic beach pails. Red Bull and cheap vodka in a bucket…the scene was exactly what you would expect from that combo! A spontaneous conga line formed, snaking thru the bar to our amusement.

Strolled quiet streets back to our apartment. Sleep was welcomed.