Friday (Ljubljana)…

Extra comfortable pillows and a hot rain shower warded off grogginess. Awoke to imposing gray skies, but no rain…yet…its coming. Began the morning with a hearty breakfast at the Cubo: lots of fresh items plus eggs and bacon!! Jeff had a yummy omelette with mushrooms and cheese. Two frothy cappuccinos served by the friendliest of staff. No better way to start the day.


Glimpses of blue skies as we set out. We strolled past parliament. The US embassy was housed in an ornate building with traditional carved wooden details…and non-traditional security cameras and armed guards. Next door, a stark-white marble modern art museum.


Ljubljana’s Orthodox Church, built in 1932, has a simple, compact exterior topped with plain domes and golden Orthodox crosses. The interior, however, was anything but simple. Tiny in size, the cross-shaped interior was adorned with colorful, intricate icons and Biblical stories. A calm staffer described in reverential detail a small, framed icon painted with vibrant colors on shiny gold. Above the altar, a mural of the last supper adorned an arched cove. The church was quiet…we were the last visitors before midday closing.


Our return loop to the hotel passed more museums and the national Opera and Ballet. As the rain returned, we passed a festive crowd defying the weather and celebrating the annual end of high school (?) or university (?) or something. It was loud.


Passing through the colorful, daily farmers market, we set our sights on our next destination…the Ljubljana Castle…perched high above the old city on a tree-covered hill. A nice bonus on a rainy day is the quick funicular, which whisks you up the hill without a drip or a puddle. The glass-and-metal funicular is part of a modern renovation of the castle, which added lots of visitor comforts, including a high-tech history museum of Slovenia and a “virtual castle” movie. A highlight was the clock tower, with wet-but-unobstructed 360 views of the city and surroundings. The oddest part of the visit was an art/music exhibit “re-mixing” 100 years of Camel cigarette ads…quite unexpected in a historic castle.


Back down the funicular, a quick walk along the river, and we found the perfect place for a snack. Lolita tempted us with a few dozen sweet treats, but we settled on two: a mout-watering, warm waffle drizzled with warm chocolate and the national dessert, a Gibanica (layers of phylo dough, apples, nuts, cheese, and poppy seeds…decadent!). Coffee washed it down and warmed us up.


Energized, we strolled the river, checking out the myriad of criss-crossy bridges. The triple “three wishes” bridge is a favorite for its triple pedestrian span. A modern wooden-plank pedestrian bridge was adorned with freakish sculptures of twisted figures and ghoulish creatures…it’s side railings full of locks left by lovers. And the “dragon bridge”, anchored by green dragons, the symbol of Ljubljana. All the while, the river gurgled slowly below, a deep green cast from the surrounding trees and overgrown wildflower banks.


After waiting a bit last night, we wisely made dinner reservations tonight at another Cubo recommendation: Restavracija Spajza. These folks were so warm…it’s the kind of spot you would want to eat every night. Our table was a bit delayed, so they placated us with a glass of sparkling wine…bonus. Pictures of the young chef/owner peppered the wall at the entry…poses with hunky football players and Olympians…and Christopher Lee from Lord of the Rings! (The Olympians are hotter, but Saruman has that awesome voice.)


Dinner was simply amazing. We did the chef’s tasting menu…full of hearty Slovenian dishes…each course surprising and inventive. Highlights included a soft, creamy goat cheese ravioli covered in a luscious pheasant ragu; tender venison medallions in red wine reduction; and a fantastic rendition of the Slovenian Gibanica. The dishes went quite well with a fantastic Slovenia merlot.


After dinner mojitos along the river at Solist Bar, rain paid a surprise return and sent us scurrying back to the hotel.