Friday (Essaouira)…

The rain ended overnight, leaving behind beautiful fluffy cloud and cool, crisp autumn air. We arose early for a quick breakfast…energy for a long day ahead.


Today’s adventure is a day trip to the town of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast.


We were delighted to be able to re-hire Youssef from Ligne d’Aventure as our guide for the day. He met us, fresh from a day at home and full of smiles.


The road to Essaouira seemed straight as an arrow. Fields of oranges, olives, grapes. We passed a large livestock market…laden trucks dispatched to the far corners of the country.


Flocks of sheep grazing…fattening them before the huge festival in several days. Youssef told us in reverent detail about why and how sheep will be sacrificed by every family later this month. Two million sheep will be sacrificed across the country. Sort of like turkeys at our Thanksgiving, but with a deeply religious meaning.


We started to climb and the land turned arid again. We passed among ridges of eroded rock. Rolling rocky fields stretched to the horizon. A quick pitstop at Cafe Atlas for a drink and toilette.


Entered a region known worldwide for its Argan trees, from which highly sought after oils are extracted. Spas around the world have discovered this uniquely Moroccan tree for producing lotions and oils. Apparently, the nuts of this tree are also desired by goats, which will climb the trees and perch precariously on branches to eat. We stopped at a women’s cooperative promoted by the current King to learn how the nuts are hand cracked to remove two hulls and extract a sliver of a nut. Then nut is then ground into the consistency of almond butter which is left to dry in large clumps that oil is squeezed out. We tasted products to eat and tested oils and lotions for the body.


As we descended the last hill before Essaouira, we paused at a dramatic vista over the city and the Atlantic Ocean. It was at this point that Youssef’s cousin arrived in his Land Cruiser and our friends Lynn and Greg hopped out. It was a wonderful reunion, carefully choreographed by our skillful hosts.


Together, we were introduced to a bubbly local guide–Sayid–as we stood outside one of the four gates to the city of Essaouira. He was a wonderful guide…full of stories. And he truly loved his city. He also spoke passionately about the United States, and the long friendship between our countries. Surprisingly, he had been watching the US presidential debates! He also loved showing Jeff every precise spot from which to get “the best pictures”. He was terrific.


Essaouira is a beautiful seaside city. Once an important port for the country, and still bustling with fishing boats. Tourism seems to have enlivened the city, not crushed it. We felt welcome but witness to real people living their lives as well.


For a few hours, Sayid led us to every corner of the city and its four gates. Each with a different characteristics neighborhood and each with a colorful story. The air smelled fresh from the rain the day before, with a hint of brine and fish from the port. Nearly every building was painted white with blue doors and shutters, the town’s signature color.


Visited two craft cooperatives…one for metal jewelry and the other for woodcraft. No pressure to buy, just proud local artisans explaining what they do. The local shops were less frenetic than anywhere we had been. And much more art focused. Visited two striking examples of restored riads. Winding streets connected by alleys where we ducked our heads. Cobblestone streets mixed with occasional dirt streets…and the occasional mudpuddle.


Lunch at a lovely restaurant with a view of the ocean. We spent the time talking with Lynn and Greg about our travels and adventures. For a change of pace, we ordered simple pasta dishes…pesto and bolognese.


Climbed to the city’s ocean side fortifications. Massive stone walls. Cannons. And the best views of the rocky coast. Huge waves crashed dramatically against the shore. The sky was misty and fragrant with sea spray.


Final stop was the port itself. Fishing boats. Seagulls. Nets. Very vibrant in the late afternoon sun.


We were re-joined by Youssef and said our goodbyes with Lynn and Greg. Heartfelt promises to remain in touch and continue to share stories. Truly wonderful to have made new friends.


We set off for the two hour drive back to Marrakech. We stopped along the road as the sun dipped below the horizon and lit up the dramatic clouds all around us. The remainder of the drive was in swift darkness, broken only by little towns along the way…each bustling with locals.


Youssef dropped us at our riad around 8:30pm. We exchanged email addresses and again parted with a new friend. We would certainly recommend him to any visitor to this colorful country.


Dinner was another simple delight. A mixed salad of vegetables and cheeses. Skewers of seasoned meat. Chicken wrapped around cheese. And chicken cutlets. Crepes filled with chocolate.


The rain returned for the evening. Another beautiful night to sleep.