Thursday (Marrakech)…

We awakened this morning by (of all things) a rooster tucked away in some nearby corner of the medina. Otherwise, there were no sounds rising from the medina around us. The sky was heavily overcast, but the cool light breeze was pleasant and calming.


We had a filling breakfast on our terrace. A wonderful omelet, fresh fruit, griddle cakes, and flaky pastries. Jeff fell in love with the strawberry preserve. Coffee perked us up.


Let me just say that the best thing about breakfast (even more than the fresh food) was a warm service. This riad has two visible staff…and they are so, so, so attentive. The benefit of a tiny riad. We can have breakfast wherever we like in the riad, depending on our mood. The staff are there just when you need them with a genuine smile and a helpful hand. Very, very comforting.


With a fresh energy, we headed out into the medina, loosely tracing a scribbled route from the riad to the main square via the souks. I would like to go on record and give Jeff major props for his adventuring spirit. He is having the time of his life barreling through confusing souks, fending off pestering “helpers”, and keeping us in the general direction we want to go. The medinas of Fes and Marrakech have definitely disoriented me…and I am still finding my sea legs. But all adventures make you stronger…which is why I blog to remember the happy times 🙂


The souks of Marrakech have a different character than those in Fes…and they are both special in their own ways. In spite of its narrow winding streets, the souks in Marrakech have a sense of order to them. We seemed to make logical decisions when we came to turns…although we did veer widely from our original course. But a sensible trick is to ignore the pleas of “come this way” or “there is nothing that way” and use your intuition to get out of the souks and then find your bearings on a map. The souks themselves have little in the way of landmarks…covered streets lead to bright stretches. The occasional open intersection is generally crammed with people and shops, making consulting the map almost impossible. But if you are willing to dive in and just walk…at a good pace…then you will see crafts and goods of every ilk. Jeff, of course, spotted a practical item shortly after entering the souks and bargained himself a good price. He is a brave one…bravo! Lamps and leather goods, carefully inlaid tables…and of course spices. I guess everyone wants the spices. We didn’t run across much produce or meats until much later in the day, but when we did, the aromas were quite enticing.


Marrakech’s souks are car-free, but they are definitely not motorbike-free. So, narrow winding streets have bi-directional pedestrians, bi-directional motorbikes, and the occasional wide delivery cart all squeezing between shops with goods spilling out onto the route. This adds an additional bit of frenzy for sure, especially if you throw in the eager salesman trying to call you into their safe haven. Cat like reflexes are advisable. And a nice bit of good karma.


We made our way to the main square of the medina…a crossroads of sorts, since all roads and itineraries eventually want to bring you here. Adjacent to the city’s main mosque (with its prominent minaret that sets a maximum height standard for buildings in the city), the square is bustling day and night, with locals and visitors cross-crossing in all directions.


We crossed the square to re-enter the souks and hit a couple of sights. The first was a medressa…a former school for studying the Koran. The medressa had been well-restored, and its tile work, courtyard fountain, carved woodwork, and detailed plaster work. A two-story warren of tiny stark rooms hugged the sunny, decorated courtyard. These rooms housed students and focused them on their studies. The rooms were grouped around mini-courtyards detailed with intricately carved wood.


Next we visited a nearby art museum, which was really an excuse to see another restored building. A beautiful courtyard had been covered to create a huge interior space surrounded by tiled rooms. A HUGE ornate wood-and-metal light fixture hung in the center of the grand space. Artwork (much of it contemporary) hung in the small rooms off the courtyard. The former hammam of the building with its circular ceiling portals also held pieces of art.


We returned to the riad to drop off our morning purchases…and to refresh with a cool beer on our terrace. The winds have picked up considerably…rain on the way tonight. Purple bougainvillea flowers swirled around the terrace, creating mesmerizing movement and sound to tingle the senses. A haze of dust is visible in our view of the late afternoon skyline.


Watched a line of tiny ants drag a dead fly across the bricks. Yay for the little guy. I hate flies. (Although for the record, there are FAR, FAR fewer flies in Marrakech than Fes or the desert.)


Refreshed, we set back out into the souks for an hour long walk as the sun set. The souks were transforming. Lights came on, and food shops began selling cooked items in earnest. Mixed meats on tiny skewers grilled on tiny charcoal fires. Smells of sweet and savory tangines baking. Fresh bread and eggs sat together on carts. The souks took on a much less frantic pace, although the motorbikes hadn’t slowed down. But the pestering helpers were mostly gone…surely to return tomorrow when the busses bring in the next load of unsuspecting visitors. Colors were much more vibrant at dusk, no longer washed out by the harsh midday sun. Slippers and gowns popped with vibrant colors.


Our first rain (other than the a brief downpour as we drove across the mountains outside of Fes) began as we relaxed at the riad before dinner. A cool steady rain moved us from our terrace to a cozy cubby off of one of the riad’s courtyards. The rain dripped from the high palms in the courtyard, splashing pleasantly. The air smelled crisp and fresh, in contrast with the dusty air this afternoon.


We walked to nearby Dar Zellij restaurant, which came highly recommended by Youssef and our riad. The riad space was beautiful, with ornate painted ceilings and plaster detail. Light fixtures cast dappled light over the room. Musicians played quietly. The restaurant was packed. We ordered a bottle of rosè to go with our meal…Jeff has successfully shown me the virtues of rosè 🙂 Several “salads” started us…wonderfully seasoned vegetable plates (including a delicious pumpkin dish that Jeff picked as his favorite). Chicken couscous and a lamb tangine. A flakey pastry and espresso to finish.


A walk in the rain felt nice after a full meal. We fell asleep to raindrops and a fresh cool breeze.