Wednesday (Barcelona to Fes)…

Our taxi arrived early, as we said our goodbyes to our apartment. Certainly sad to depart Barcelona, but we have found a city to which we are certain to return. Yet another reminder that Spain is a very special place.


Back to the BCN airport, for a very quick check-in with Iberia and an efficient security check. Even during a busy weekday morning, the airport feels peaceful and quiet…the result of a modern, cavernous design that dampens almost all sound.


A short flight to Madrid. Our 20min connection between terminals in Madrid felt longer than the flight 🙂 With a stamp in our passport at Passport Control, we entered terminal T4S, with its wavy ceiling reminiscent of some of the Gaudí buildings we visiting over the past few days.


IB3702 from Madrid to Casablanca. A notable increase in French-speaking passengers provided an audible transition to the next leg of our adventure…Morocco.


Welcome to Africa. A first for both of us. Our start in Morocco wasn’t without its stresses, but we handled the challenges with the spirits of adventurers. Long passport lines. Slow luggage. An efficient but not user friendly train station.


Boarded our first train from Casablanca Airport to Casa Voyaguer, the main connection for high speed trains to the rest of Morocco. I’m going to suggest that the temperature in the car was only a few degrees lower than the temp required to make a nice brisket. A very nice woman confirmed when we arrived at Casa Voyaguer, since there were no announcements, no attendants, and no prominent signage in the station.


Transitioned to our next train, with high speed service to Fes. We chose a first class seat so that we could get non-smoking and air conditioning, but before you get an image in your head of a luxurious ride, let me mention that first class doesn’t come with soap in the bathroom…not to mention staring at the tracks thru the toilet.


Two VERY VERY kind young women helped us call our riad with our arrival time. For some reason, we could call out of Morocco but not within Morocco. Merci to these two patient locals.


As the train wound its way northeast-ish from Casablanca, we watched the sun dip lower over the Atlantic Ocean. Lots of sheep. Groups of people walking down dusty paths that seems to start nowhere and lead nowhere. A white haired man sitting in a dusty field next to a black cow. Rows of tin-and-wood huts dotted with satellite dishes on roofs that could collapse under their own weight. Bumper cars at river-side fair.


Our train stopped for a bit in a forest of low eucalyptus trees. I was expecting a band of marauders. We learned later from the taxi driver that our train had hit a donkey. Poor donkey. But I’m glad it wasn’t marauders!


We passed through Rabat, which was aglow in the setting sun like a scene from a post card. Old towers hilltops. Golden sand-colored city walls.


The sun set before we hit Mekenes. We sped through the darkened countryside to Fes.


The train station in Fes was the first sign of good things to come. It was a small but beautiful station, with tradition ceramic tiles from floor to ceiling. The taxi from our riad was waiting as promised. A friendly young man, who gave us useful information as we made our way from the Ville Nouvelle into the historic Medina…about a 15 minute ride.


A short walk from one of the car parks up a couple of narrow lanes and we were at the unassuming doors of our riad…the serene Palais Amani. Upon entering, we were transported to another world. By definition, the riads are historic homes with interior courtyard gardens. Colorful tile was everywhere. The only sound was the light splash of the garden fountain.


We were greeted by our cheerful hostess, who gave us an orientation to the hotel and the area while we sipped warm mint tea…heaven in a cup.


After a quick freshening from the day, we had a fantastic Moroccan dinner in the garden. A very private affair, there were only four tables. Truly a wonderful way to relax after a long stressful day of travel and grime. We ordered a wonderful Moroccan rosé…perfectly chilled and perfectly subtle. All of our dishes highlighted subtle spices. A simple puff pastry with beef. A layered veggie dish with eggplant and tomato topped with puff pastry. A hearty-yet-subtle entree of beef with two preparations of quince. And a divine lemon mousse with a sweet quince drizzle for dessert.


Afterwards, we enjoyed a local beer (Spéciale) on the rooftop terrace. The Medina is quite silent at night. Only the sound of a dog barking on a nearby hill.


A long day. Full of new adventures. But we survived and have grand stories awaiting us for the next 11 day in Morocco.