Monday (Barcelona)…

After having a pastry and coffee in our apartment, we set out towards the soaring Gaudì masterpiece, Sagrada Família. Our first Metro ride wisked us easily from Universitat to Sagrada Família station. Upon exiting the station, we were greeted with the end of a long line…which we soon discovered wrapped around three sides of the church. Not wanting to put off seeing this must-see site, we joined the other eager tourists and patiently waited for an hour and a half…finally gaining entrance and walking in the doors under the Ascension facade. We were immediately faced with the overwhelming genius of Gaudì. The interior is breathtaking with soaring vaults and numerous glass windows bathing the church in light. No dark gothic church here. Gaudì believed in providing light wherever possible. The main interior was only recently finished and consecrated by the Pope in 2010. It was begun in 1882, and has been under construction for 130 years. Presently, only 40% has been completed. Ambitiously, they project completion mid this century. When done, it will soar over many other famous landmark churches in Europe including St. Peters in Rome. Gaudì was deeply religious and intended this church to tell the story of the bible in stone. After marveling at the beauty around us, we ventured to the elevators at our allotted timeslot to ascend to the top of the first completed towers within Gaudì’s lifetime…those capping the Nativity facade. Gaudì intended this faced to show the birth and youth of Jesus, so it was designed to be hopeful and joyous.


As we stepped off the elevator, we understood why time slots were tightly enforced…only a narrow bridge connects the sets of towers. Snapping our fill of photos, we descended using the spiral stairs in the opposite tower from our ascent. As we wound down, we were greeted with small balconies that jutted out affording views of the fantastical stone working enveloping the building. Gaudì was a master at incorporating flora and fauna in his design…though everything has well thought meaning. Before his death (getting hit by municipal trolley ironically), most of the church had been planned in 3D plaster models. Though the civil war brought destruction to these plans, most were saved and pieced painstakingly back together. The project continues apace with fervent Gaudì followers carrying on his work and imbuing their own interpretations where necessary.


After reaching the bottom, we entered an exhibit explaining the symbolism and inspiration employed by Gaudì…trees with branches became columns…fruit became finials…palm
fronds became capitals…snakes and alligators became drain spouts.


Yet another exhibit in the crypt area described the history and ongoing work to bring this house of God into being. From the use of small sand bags attached to wire to get a sense of how soaring vaults will bear weight to modern CNC machines that rout out molds of new work, the story of this site is intriguing. The exhibit culminates with a view of Gaudì’s grave in the crypt under in the Carmine chapel.


Returning back to the church, we wandered again seeing new details and the changing light as the day started to wane and the sun beginning to dip low enough on the horizon to send shimmering beans of light across the floor and against soaring columns. It was definitely meant to be a monument that evolves thru the day with the Nativity side in the east and Ascension in the west. A quick trip would never do this architecture justice. Fortunately, we were in no rush, so we stayed until closing time was upon us. Exiting, we moved across the street for a late mid-day snack watching the golden rays of sunset move across the stone walls as the sun retreated upon the horizon.


With a magical day behind us, we walked back towards our apartment discussing the wonder of Gaudì. Without seeing the Sagrada, his full genius could never be appreciated. We look toward to returning again to see the progress towards completion…and God willing…the finished ensemble.