Friday (Fes)…

We awoke refreshed, with a renewed sense of adventure. The challenges of yesterday’s trek through the medina had morphed into semi-romantic vignettes and humorous bumps in the road. Nevertheless, although Jeff was feeling defiantly daring, I was filled with an uncharacteristic trepidation…a desire to retreat behind the walls of the riad and hide. Not me at all…and that fear began to transform into resolve.


So, after another hearty Moroccan breakfast, we hired a guide through the riad…someone they trust and use often…and ventured back into the medina. Our guide was warm and helpful, and we were finally able to pass through the streets like a savvy local, without a single hassle or hustle. Money well spent.


As the Muslim holy day, Friday is notablely less hectic in the medina…except in the food markets. They are just as busy, and women shop for ingredients for the family meal. But along the other streets, many shops are shuttered…but certainly not all. There is still plenty to see…just fewer people to hustle around. And fewer donkeys carrying packs of goods down the tiny narrow streets.


Our guide was quite impressed how extensively we had traversed the city yesterday. Although we didn’t know it at the time, we had crossed (and re-crossed) most of the major routes…and many, many of the minor routes. We learned that there were some 9400-or-so streets in the medina!! Many merely tiny alleys ducking between or under the patchwork of buildings. We also learned that there are dozens and dozens (hundreds perhaps?) of mini-neighborhoods in the medina…each with a mosque, and a bakery, and a market of some sort, etc. each neighborhood also has a designated area (some long wall perhaps) with side by side rectangles painted in white. There are 33 political parties in Fes, and each party given one poster size square on the wall for election materials. Like everything else in the medina, this system seems basic and quaint and the very core of human democracy. Certainly doesn’t cost millions of dollars like our system! Not better or worse…just different.


Heavy wooden doors with metal studs often have two door knockers…one in the center and one in the upper left corner. This system is used in buildings with two residents. Although identical in shape, the knockers make two distinct sounds…one for each residence. The doors also typically have a five-fingered metal hinge signifying the Hand of Fatima…much like our horseshoes, this is a superstitious symbol for good luck. The five fingers also represent the five pillars of Islam.


Another benefit of a guide is that we were able to stop in front of the major mosque entrances and peek in…even taking a few pictures. Being non-Muslim, we were not able to go inside, but even from the many doorways, we could see the beauty and art deep inside. Colorful tiles ( we learned that green is the color of Allah), ornate plaster, tin lanterns with colored glass, and rugs…lots of big beautiful rugs. But we also got a glimpse at the people…men from all over the medina…seated to meditate, to read, or to pray. Heading away from the mosques, we noticed shoulder height beams across the streets leading into the mosques. This, we learned, is to keep donkeys and other pack animals away from the mosque entrances…it also forces and bowing before Allah near the mosque.


We were allowed to enter one active mosque, because it was also a school of some sort. The building’s courtyard was surrounded by rings of ornate details: ceramic tile in the lower third of the walls, (not to mention ALL of the floors); decorative plaster above that; and carved wood on the upper third. Simply beautiful. We caught a glimpse of the mihrab (niche pointed towards Mecca) and minbar (where Friday sermons are given by Imans).


Yes, we did see the tanneries. I cannot imagine doing that without a guide. We were handed sprigs of mint as we entered; useful for rubbing under the nose when the smells of the leather production get overwhelming. We got a perfect view above the multitude of pools where animal hides are bleached, colored, and dried. Pigeon poop and some other animal urine are both involved in the process. In spite of our guide, we did get a bit of a hard sell to make a purchase “or all of this will go away”. We held fast and did not purchase, and our guide easily got us back outside.


A stop at a restored building now housing a small museum featuring wood art. We loved the view from the roof…and a refreshing drink. Mine was hot mint tea; Jeff opted for a citrus soda.


We made our way back to the riad for a late afternoon lunch. Wonderful soup, sandwiches, and a fresh quiche with onions. Spent the rest of the daylight hours reading, waiting for our pre-dinner visit to the riad’s hammam.


Our hammam treatment was long and soothing. Scented salts in warm water to relax hands and feet. A nutty scrub on arms and calves. Scented oils, fragrant soaps…and an invigorating body scrub to thoroughly exfoliate head to toe. We drank a refreshing citron beverage. The heat was a bit overwhelming, and it was nice when cool air occasionally came in. Otherwise, the rooms were steamy, scented, and sound-less…except for the pouring of water. Afterwards, a cool relaxation room and some tea.


Time for dinner. A delightful pumpkin soup reminded us that it is in fact October! Slow cooked beef with artichoke and legumes. And a divine chocolate cake crumbled over juicy pomegranate seeds.


We turned in early after a long and wonderful day. What a difference a day makes.