Friday (Barcelona)…

After a quick coffee and pastry to jump-start the day, we set our direction for the Museu Picasso in the El Born section of the historic center…just a hair further than our Barri Gótic routes from yesterday. Passed through the busy Mercat Santa Caterina, with it’s colorful undulating roof. Found a cute teal-metal Vespa toy…a perfect memento for our Christmas tree. Turned up our noses at the long lines at the museum…no rush…the weather was just too beautiful to stop walking.


Nevertheless, just beyond the museum, we spotted an open door to a grand church. Like cats distracted by a ball of crumpled paper, we diverted from our walk and ducked into the Santa Maria del Mar. What good fortune…we stumbled on the last 15 minutes of an a cappella choir. Mesmerizing chants emanated from this motley, street-clothes-dressed group of twenty, filling the cavernous stone nave. Immediately after they finished, they rushed for the door. It was like we had witnessed a choir flash mob.


The church closed abruptly for midday siestas. So we grabbed a satisfying lunch on the adjacent Plaça Santa Maria. Patatas bravas (another yummy rendition with a spicy aoli). A wood oven pizza with artichoke, mushroom, and ham. And cold cervezas to quench our thirst. A Spanish guitarist played softly on the square. A light warm breeze.


Looped under Barcelona’s very own Arc de Triomf. Unlike the Parisian icon, this one is made of red brick and colorful ceramic tiles. Dodged dozens and dozens of bicycles trying to snap a couple of pictures.


Strolled winding paths in the pleasant Parc de la Ciutadella. A towering fountain/monument in one of the far corners: the aptly named Cascada Mamuth A cascade of water originating from marble horses above. Dragons or gargoyles spraying water in the pools far below. A golden chariot topped the display. Otherwise a peaceful park…a few of the trees showing the initial signs of autumn.


Out of curiosity, we returned to the Santa Maria del Mar just as it was re-opening for the afternoon. More free entertainment…a simple-but-beautiful wedding, complete with a dimpled ring-girl and a blushing bride in a beautiful white gown. Traditional wedding tunes belted from a hidden pipe organ. All weddings are beautiful, but there is something fairytale-ish about a wedding in a grand Roman Catholic church in Europe.


Walking back to the apartment, we were lured back to our cupcake shop from the day before. Today, we rewarded lots of walking with two cupcakes: a Katy Perry (raspberry) and a Madonna (lemon). Took a historic (and less sweet) detour to see the impressively in-tact, first century B.C. columns from the Temple of Augustus from the old Roman city of Barcio. And finally another market–the Mercat St. Joseph–delivering sensory overload. One minute your smelling fresh oranges and peaches, the next the smell of fresh fish smacks you in the face.


Yay…a break at the apartment.


For dinner we wandered in the Rival neighborhood. Found a wonderful spot…Lobo Bar…and snagged a choice outdoor seat. Fantastic tapas again tonight, including tempura asparagus with a romesco sauce, a fantastic twist on a Caprese salad with a wonderful pesto sauce, and a fried egg/jamon iberico/and potato dish. Tonight’s street entertainment? Two fire dancers. Very impressive. And maybe a sign of things to come in Morocco.


We walked off dinner in the twisting lanes of the Rival. Tiny bars spilled out onto the street around every corner. Every bar seemed full and festive. Must be the weather? Or just a normal Friday. The chaos of the Rival transitioned into the quiet, orderly, tree-lined grid of L’Eixample. A peaceful route before bed.